Deokjeokdo Island

Deokjeokdo is the main island of the Deokjeok archipelago, about an hour by fast ferry from Yeonan Pier in Incheon. With Seopori Beach backed by an old pine forest, pebble coves and one of the largest reed fields on Korea's west coast, it offers a quiet island break within easy reach of Seoul. A road runs around the island, so you can also take a car across on the ferry.

History: an island on the route of a Tang army

The island's old name, Deokmuldo, means "the island in the middle of the deep sea". In 660, when the Tang general Su Dingfang crossed the sea with a large army at Silla's request to attack the kingdom of Baekje, the Deokmuldo where he stopped was this island. In 1708, under the Joseon dynasty, a naval garrison called Deokjeokjin was set up here, and the name Deokjeok came into use on maps. People are thought to have lived on the island since the Neolithic period.

The island today

The Deokjeok archipelago consists of some 40 inhabited and uninhabited islands, and Deokjeokdo is the largest. Clams and oysters are farmed on the tidal flats, and islanders combine farming with fishing. Most residents live around Jin-ri in the south-east, where the ferries dock. The seaward coastline is rocky and deeply indented.

What to see

• Seopori Beach: the island's main beach, a gently sloping stretch of sand backed by old pine woods; sources differ on the beach's length and the age of the pines. It is a designated national tourist area.
• Batjireum Beach: the island's other main sandy beach, usually quieter than Seopo-ri.
• Neungdong Jagalmadang: a cove covered in rounded pebbles, framed by rocky islets offshore.
• Bijobong Peak: climb to this central peak for views over a sea scattered with islands. It is also known for sunrise, sunset and stargazing.
• Reed field: counted among the largest reed beds on the west coast, at its best in autumn when the silver plumes sway in the wind.

Island life and scenery

Deokjeokdo is also known for black goats, grapes and shiitake mushrooms. In 2010 about 1,400 people lived here in 748 households, and most of the island has been reforested with pine. The archipelago includes islands such as Soyado to the east of Deokjeokdo and Seonmido, which has a lighthouse. Following the coastal path past the reed field, you pass Yongdam Cave, said to have been the home of a dragon, before climbing to a peak with views over the surrounding islands.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: about one hour by fast ferry from Incheon's Yeonan Pier, or about 1 hour 40 minutes by car ferry from Bangameori Pier on Daebudo via Jawoldo. Sailings change with the tides and seasons, so check the ferry operator's booking site before you go.
• Getting around: a bus runs from the pier towards Seopo-ri, but it is infrequent. A bicycle or car makes things easier.
• Time needed: a day trip is possible, but one night lets you enjoy the beaches and Bijobong without rushing.
• Watch out: fog or high waves can cancel sailings, so leave slack in your return plans. Tickets sell out early at weekends and in the summer peak.