Gwaneumsa Temple (Jeju)

On the northern slopes of Hallasan, at about 650 m above sea level, Gwaneumsa is the head temple of the 23rd district of the Jogye Order, the temple that oversees Jeju's other Buddhist temples. Past the entrance gate, a sloping path is lined on both sides with Buddha figures carved from Jeju basalt, and in the grounds you can still see the lava cave where the temple's founder prayed. The story of Buddhism vanishing from the island and coming back, and the scars of the Jeju April Third Incident, all meet in this one place.

A temple that disappeared and returned

No one knows when Gwaneumsa was first founded. Jeju was once said to have 500 temples and 500 shamanic shrines, but under King Sukjong of Joseon all the island's temples were closed and Gwaneumsa fell into ruin. For roughly 200 years after that, Jeju had virtually no Buddhist temples.

The temple was revived by the Buddhist nun An Bong-ryeo-gwan. Despite local opposition, she spent three years praying to Gwanseum, the bodhisattva of compassion, in Haewolgul Cave in front of the temple while she built the main hall and monks' quarters. Gwaneumsa reopened in 1908 (some sources say 1909), an event seen as the start of Buddhism's modern revival on Jeju.

The April Third Incident and rebuilding

A fire in 1939 destroyed the main hall and other buildings. During the Jeju April Third Incident of 1948–1949, an armed uprising and its brutal suppression, the temple's position on the slopes of Hallasan made it a battleground between insurgents and government forces. Local people hid in the temple and its caves, and every building was burned. After the ban on entering Hallasan was lifted, rebuilding began in the late 1960s, starting with the main hall and followed by the meditation hall, other shrine halls, the Four Heavenly Kings Gate, the entrance gate and the bell pavilion.

What to see

• The path of Buddhas: Beyond the entrance gate, rows of basalt Buddha figures of the same size line the slope. Each has different hand gestures and folds in its robe, so it is worth walking slowly and comparing them. Cedar trees and stone walls along the path add a distinctly Jeju feel.
• Haewolgul and Gwaneumgul: Haewolgul Cave lies at the front of the temple and Gwaneumgul Cave at the back. Haewolgul is known as the cave where An Bong-ryeo-gwan prayed.
• The halls: Past the Four Heavenly Kings Gate is the main hall, Daeungjeon, with a statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, and a large statue of Maitreya stands on the hill above.
• Seasons: Cherry trees bloom in spring, and around Buddha's Birthday long strings of lanterns hang above the approach path.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: Allow about an hour for the approach path and the grounds.
• Templestay: The temple runs a templestay programme with meditation and mandala activities; check dates with the temple in advance.
• Parking: There is space for about 60 cars and 6 large vehicles. The address is 660 Sallokbuk-ro, Jeju City.
• Getting there: By car, drive up Sallokbuk-ro from Jeju City. Buses are infrequent, so check times in a map app before you set off.
• With Hallasan: The Gwaneumsa Trail into Hallasan National Park starts nearby. To reach the summit crater lake, Baengnokdam, you must book in advance through the park's online reservation system, so decide beforehand whether you are visiting the temple only or also hiking.
• Etiquette: Keep quiet inside the halls and avoid photographing monks and worshippers head-on during services.