Sajik Park, Gwangju

On a hill south of central Gwangju, facing the Yangnim-dong neighbourhood, an old altar, a cherry-tree forest and a city lookout share one park. Sajik Park occupies the site of the Sajikdan, the altar to the gods of land and grain, and has an unusual past: it became a zoo before the altar was brought back. By day you can climb the observation tower for views over the city to Mudeungsan; after dark a media-art trail lights up the woods.

From altar to zoo and back again

A sajikdan was where rites were offered to Sa, god of the land, and Jik, god of grain, for the peace of the realm and a good harvest. In the Joseon period every county seat had one, and Gwangju's stood on this hill. The city's rites ended in 1894, and in the late 1960s the Sajik Zoo was built here and the altar demolished. Public pressure to restore it grew, and in 1991 the zoo moved to Uchi Park and the altar was rebuilt. In April 1994 the Sajik rite was held again for the first time in about 100 years.

What to see

• Sajikdan: Beyond a red hongsalmun gate stands the restored square stone altar, still the stage for the annual rite.
• Observation tower: The round lookout rising above the trees gives a sweeping view of Gwangju and the ridges of Mudeungsan behind. Entry is free.
• Sajik Forest of Light: An after-dark media-art route of about 830 m that links the former zoo grounds, the altar, the forest paths and the tower with light, projections and music.
• Pavilions and memorial: Yangpajeong, Gwandeokjeong and an octagonal pavilion are scattered through the park, along with a police memorial tower.
• Cherry blossoms: The trees peak around mid-April, when lights are strung in the branches so the blossoms can be enjoyed at night.

Two pillars of a Joseon county on one hill

On the park's northern slope stands Gwangju Hyanggyo, the county's state-run Confucian school and shrine to Confucius and other sages, which moved to its present site in 1488. With the altar that prayed for peace and harvests and the school at the heart of Confucian learning side by side on the same hill, you can see the two pillars of a Joseon-era county seat in one walk. Neighbouring Yangnim-dong grew up after American missionaries settled there in 1904, so following the hill you move naturally from Joseon Korea into the modern era.

Tripto tips

• Opening: The park is open at all times and free. The observation tower is listed as open 09:00–22:00 (last entry 21:50), every day of the year. The Forest of Light runs after sunset with hours that change by season, so check Nam-gu district's information.
• Time needed: Allow 1 hour for the altar and the tower, or 1.5–2 hours if you add the Forest of Light.
• Parking: The park has no car park of its own. Leave your car at Gwangju Hyanggyo on the northern slope or at a public car park in Yangnim-dong and walk.
• When to go: Cherry-blossom season in April, or an evening visit: climb the tower around sunset, then walk down through the Forest of Light.
• Nearby: Gwangju Hyanggyo, the Confucian school on the park's northern slope, and the Yangnim-dong History and Culture Village, a ten-minute-plus walk away, make an easy half-day stroll together.