Sobaeksan

Sobaeksan is a major peak of the Baekdudaegan mountain range, straddling Danyang in North Chungcheong and Yeongju in North Gyeongsang. Around its main summit, Birobong (1,439 m), there are wide grassy meadows instead of trees, so once you reach the ridge you see ridge after ridge rolling into the distance. It is known for royal azaleas in spring and snow and hoarfrost in winter.

The mountain

The name means "little white mountain", a nod to Baekdusan, and since ancient times Sobaeksan has been revered alongside Taebaeksan. In the Joseon period it was counted among the Sipseungji, ten places believed to be safe from fire, flood and storm, where people could escape war and famine. The mountain is made of very old gneiss.

It became Korea's 18th national park on 14 December 1987. The park covers about 322 km², split almost evenly between the two provinces, and its main ridge from Birobong to Yeonhwabong is part of the Baekdudaegan.

What to see

• Birobong meadows: Low grassland and a grove of yew trees surround the summit. Strong winds keep tall trees from growing here.
• Yeonhwabong and the observatory: The Sobaeksan Optical Astronomy Observatory, which laid the foundations of Korean astronomy, sits on the Yeonhwabong ridge. From Birobong you can see its white domes along the ridgeline.
• The peaks: Gungmangbong (1,421 m), Je1-Yeonhwabong (1,394 m), Sinseonbong (1,389 m), Yeonhwabong (1,383 m) and Dosolbong (1,314 m) are all over 1,300 m.
• Valleys and waterfalls: Huibang and Biro Falls, and the Jukgye, Huibang and Cheondong valleys.
• Wildlife: The park's flagship species are the red fox and Megaleranthis saniculifolia, a rare Korean wildflower. Edelweiss also grows near the summit.

Through the seasons

In May, royal azaleas bloom along the ridge. In winter the summit area stays under snow for a long time, earning Sobaeksan the nickname "the Alps of Korea", and many hikers come to see the hoarfrost on the branches. Be aware that the winter ridge is extremely windy and feels far colder than the thermometer says.

Longer routes and overnight hikes

Beyond Birobong and Yeonhwabong there are plenty of long ridge routes. From Choamsa on the Yeongju side to Gungmangbong is 7.3 km, about 3 hours 10 minutes, and from Jungnyeong Pass on the Danyang–Yeongju border past Je2-Yeonhwabong to Yeonhwabong is 7 km, about 2 hours 40 minutes. The 9.9 km route from Myojeongnyeong over Myojeokbong and Dosolbong down to Jungnyeong takes about 5 hours and follows the Baekdudaegan. To traverse the main ridge linking Birobong, Yeonhwabong and Gungmangbong, set off early and allow a full day.

The park has campsites and mountain shelters. Prices differ between peak and off-peak seasons and bookings are often required, so check the national park reservation website first. Trailhead parking on the Danyang side is listed at KRW 2,000 for compact cars and KRW 5,000 (peak) or KRW 4,000 (off-peak) for small and mid-size cars.

Tripto tips

• Popular routes: Birobong is usually climbed from Eoui-gok (4.6 km, about 2.5 hours) or Cheondong Valley (6.8 km, about 3 hours) on the Danyang side, or from Samga (5.7 km, about 3 hours) on the Yeongju side. The Huibangsa route to Yeonhwabong is shorter (4.4 km, about 2 hours 20 minutes). Times are one way.
• Time: Allow 5–6 hours for a return hike to Birobong.
• Closures: Trails can close at short notice in bad weather or during wildfire-prevention periods. Check the national park website before you set out.
• Parking: There are car parks at trailheads such as Huibang, Samga and Cheondong, with fees depending on vehicle size and time.
• Gear: In winter you will need crampons and windproof clothing. There is almost no shelter from the wind at the top.