Yungneung and Geolleung Royal Tombs

Yunggeolleung is the joint name for two Joseon royal tombs where the tragic Crown Prince Sado and his son, King Jeongjo, lie side by side. A son who lost his father as a child became king, moved his father's grave to an auspicious site, and asked to be buried beside him – that story is told by the two tombs in the forest. Trails wind through dense pine and oak woods, and the site pairs well with Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress for a day trip.

History: a son moves his father's grave

Crown Prince Sado (1735–1762) died locked in a rice chest on the orders of his father, King Yeongjo, and was first buried on Baebongsan in what is now Dongdaemun District, Seoul. After becoming king, Jeongjo moved the grave here to Hwasan in 1789, naming it Hyeollyungwon. Lady Hyegyeong, Sado's wife, died in 1815 and was buried with him the following year. In 1899 Emperor Gojong elevated Sado posthumously to King Jangjo, and the grave became a royal tomb, Yungneung. Jeongjo died in 1800 and, as he wished, was buried on a hill to the east of his father. When Queen Hyoui died in 1821, Jeongjo's tomb was moved to its present site and the couple were buried together – this is Geolleung. Both tombs were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2009 as part of the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty.

What to see

• Round pond at Yungneung: the circular pond in front of the red spirit gate is unusual for a Joseon royal tomb. One interpretation is that it represents a dragon's wish-granting pearl, a sign of Jeongjo's devotion to his father.
• Lotus-carved screen stones: the stones encircling Yungneung's mound are boldly carved with lotuses, said to soothe the spirit of a prince who never fulfilled his potential.
• Civil and military officials: stone figures guarding the mounds show the sculptural skill of Jeongjo's era and set a new model for 19th-century royal tombs.
• Geolleung: similar in layout, but without the pond and with only one stele.
• Tomb keeper's house: near the entrance, where rites were prepared, with an old Chinese juniper and a Korean plum yew in the courtyard.

Records of a son and a mother

Lady Hyegyeong, Sado's wife, left Hanjungnok, a memoir of her husband's death and of court life. Keeping her story in mind as you walk makes the layout of the two tombs more moving. A Korean plum yew near Yungneung is designated a Natural Monument. At Yungneung you can also see the royal kitchen where offerings were prepared and the pavilion sheltering the memorial stele. The stone sculptures of both tombs are regarded as a reflection of the cultural flowering of Jeongjo's reign.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: February–May and September–October 09:00–18:00 (last entry 17:00), June–August 09:00–18:30 (last entry 17:30), November–January 09:00–17:30 (last entry 16:30). Closed Mondays.
• Admission: KRW 1,000 for adults (Korean nationals aged 25–64, foreign visitors aged 19–64).
• Memorial rites: held at Yungneung on the second Sunday of April and at Geolleung on the second Sunday of May.
• Getting there: city buses run from Byeongjeom Station (Line 1) or Suwon Station; check the route before you go.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours to see both tombs and walk the forest trails.