Ansan (Seoul)

Ansan is a modest hill about 296 m high in Seodaemun-gu, Seoul. A Joseon-era beacon tower has been restored on the summit, and the Ansan Jarak-gil, a loop of about 7 km around the hillside, is famous as a step-free forest trail. You can walk straight up from Dongnimmun Station, which makes it one of the easiest forest walks in central Seoul.

Name and history

The name Ansan, written with the character for "saddle", comes from its two peaks, which together look like a horse's saddle. In historical records it more often appears as Muak. When the founders of Joseon were looking for a new capital, the scholar-official Ha Ryun proposed the Muak area instead of Hanyang, and the pass between Inwangsan and Ansan is still called Muakjae.

In the Joseon period a beacon on the summit relayed smoke or fire signals from Pyeongan and Hwanghae provinces in the north to the final station on Namsan. There were originally two beacons, east and west; the present east beacon was restored in 1994 to mark 600 years of Seoul as the capital and is a Seoul Monument. The area became a park in 1977 and is now called Ansan Urban Nature Park.

What to see

• Ansan Jarak-gil: A loop with an average gradient under 9%, gentle enough for wheelchairs and pushchairs. The full route opened in 2013 and is described as Korea's first barrier-free loop trail. It links up with the Seoul Dulle-gil trail.
• Metasequoia forest: The stretch through tall metasequoias and Korean pines is the most popular part of the trail.
• Beacon and summit view: From the top you see Inwangsan and Seodaemun Prison History Hall, and in the distance Bukhansan, the Han River and Gwanaksan. It is also known for night views over the city.
• Muakjae Skybridge: Opened at the end of 2017, it reconnected Ansan with Inwangsan across the busy road below.
• Bongwonsa: An old temple on the southern slope that you can reach from the trail.

The stories behind the name

There are several theories about the name Muak. According to Yi Su-gwang's 17th-century encyclopedia Jibong Yuseol, Insubong on Bukhansan looked like a child running away, so this hill was named Moak, "mother mountain", to hold it back; the character for "mother" was later read as "mu", giving Muak. Another story traces it to Moajae, the pass people crossed "in groups" for fear of tigers. A popular tale linking the name to the monk Muhak is considered weakly supported folklore.

The oldest recorded name is Gisan, from the Goryeo period. Because of the beacon, it was also called Bonghwattuk, and the name of the 205 m southern peak, Geumhwasan, survives in today's Geumhwa Tunnel and Geumhwa Primary School. Royal tombs, including the first burial of Crown Prince Hyojang, were once here, but all were later moved. Black locust trees dominate the woods, with pines on the rocky north-east side and birch, wild cherry, ash and Korean pine planted on the south-west side since 1990.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: Join the trail from Dongnimmun Station Exit 5, Muakjae Station Exit 4 or Hongje Station Exit 3 (all Line 3). From Dongnimmun you pass Seodaemun Prison History Hall on the way up.
• Time: 2–3 hours for the Jarak-gil loop, a little longer with the summit. A route from Dongnimmun Station taking in the Seodaemun sights is given as about 3 hours 20 minutes.
• Facilities: Rest areas, benches and a book café along the way. There are drinking springs, but check the posted water-quality notices.
• When: Lovely in spring with cherry blossom and yellow kerria, and in autumn. For the night view, time your climb for sunset and bring a torch for the way down.