Inwangsan Mountain

Inwangsan is a 338 m rocky mountain rising west of Gyeongbokgung Palace. The Seoul City Wall runs along its ridge, and from the top you can see the palace, Bugaksan, Namsan and the whole of downtown Seoul. Reachable straight from the subway, it lets you take in both the old layout of the city and its modern face in a short outing.

The mountain's story

Inwangsan is made of hard granite, so it is full of rocks with names like Train Rock, Skirt Rock, Tiger Rock and Hat Rock. Joseon-era Seoul (Hanyang) was enclosed by a wall linking four mountains, Bugaksan, Naksan, Namsan and Inwangsan, and Inwangsan guarded the west.

The mountain is famous in art too. Jeong Seon's "Clearing after Rain on Mt. Inwang" of 1751, painted after a downpour, is a National Treasure. Comparing the bold, inky masses of rock in the painting with the real peaks is part of the fun.

What to see

• Seoul City Wall on Inwangsan: Stepped paths follow the wall up to the summit, with the ramparts on one side and the city on the other.
• Summit views: Gyeongbokgung and the Cheong Wa Dae area, Bukhansan beyond Bugaksan and N Seoul Tower on Namsan: all the mountains framing central Seoul are in sight.
• Guksadang: A shamanist shrine to various deities. It originally stood on top of Namsan, but when the Japanese built the Chosen Shrine there they forced it out, and around 1925 it was dismantled and rebuilt here. It is a National Folklore Cultural Heritage.
• Seonbawi Rock: A huge rock above Guksadang, listed as Seoul folklore heritage. People still come here to pray, leaving candles and offerings. Please do not photograph people praying without asking.
• Suseongdong Valley: A valley on the eastern side towards Seochon, protected as a Seoul monument. Following it down brings you into the lanes of Seochon.

Good to know

Guksadang did not end up on Inwangsan by chance. The spot is considered auspicious in feng shui, and it was believed to be where King Taejo, founder of Joseon, and the monk Muhak, both now worshipped as shamanist deities, once prayed. Inscriptions in hangul are carved into rocks around the mountain, including one with the slogan "Unity of East Asian Youth".

Tripto tips

• Routes: There are several trails, and most round trips take about two hours. The rocky sections near the summit are steep, so hiking shoes are better than trainers.
• Starting points: From Dongnimmun Station (Line 3), climb past Guksadang and Seonbawi to the wall path, or start from Sajikdan near Gyeongbokgung Station and follow the wall. Coming down via Suseongdong Valley takes you into Seochon's cafés and lanes.
• Fees: No admission fee, open at any time. There is no car park, so use public transport.
• When to go: Sunset with the city lights coming on, and spring when forsythia and cherry trees bloom, are especially good. In summer the exposed rocky sections get very hot.
• Watch out: There are military facilities and restricted zones near the summit, and photography may be limited in places. Follow the signs.