Bijarim Forest

Step into this forest in Gujwa-eup, eastern Jeju, and the canopy closes over you, formed by thick, twisted trunks with wide-spreading branches. Bijarim Forest (officially the Torreya Forest of Pyeongdae-ri) is a stand of thousands of centuries-old Japanese nutmeg trees (bija), a forest of this kind and size rarely found anywhere in the world, and it was designated a Natural Monument in 1993. The trail of red volcanic scoria is flat, so anyone can walk it at a gentle pace.

History: a forest born from ritual offerings?

No one knows exactly how the forest began, but one explanation holds that nuts used in village ancestral rites were scattered after the ceremonies and took root. The nuts were long used as a remedy against intestinal worms, and the fine-grained wood was prized for quality furniture and baduk (Go) boards. Because the trees were so useful, they were carefully protected over the centuries. The forest covers 448,165 m².

What to see

• Giant trees: the trees stand 7–14 m tall, with trunks 50–110 cm across and crowns spreading 10–15 m. Sources differ on the numbers: about 2,570 or some 2,800 trees, aged 300–600 or 500–800 years.
• Scoria trail: a path of red volcanic cinders loops through the forest. After rain the smell of earth and resin is especially strong.
• Orchids: rare orchids, among them wind orchids and the bija orchid, grow wild here.
• Leaves and nuts: the needles are thick, short and sharp-tipped; in autumn the trees carry elongated, oval nuts.

Good to know

• The bija tree (Torreya nucifera) belongs to the yew family and grows in Korea only south of Naejangsan and on Jeju, as well as in Japan.
• Volcanic cones such as Darangswi Oreum (Wollangbong), Abu Oreum and Yongnuni Oreum cluster around the forest, so it combines well with an oreum hike.
• The forest has been used as a filming location for several films and dramas.

Nearby

• Manjanggul Lava Tube: a World Natural Heritage lava cave about 6 km away; together with Bijarim it fills a half day.
• Seongsan Ilchulbong and Udo Island: 20 to 30 minutes by car. Forest in the morning, east coast in the afternoon works well.
• Sehwa and Woljeong-ri beaches: turquoise water and café-lined streets on the north-east coast, a relaxed stop after the forest walk.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: 09:00–18:00 (last entry 17:00), open every day.
• Admission: adults KRW 3,000, teenagers and children KRW 1,500, preschool children free. Parking is free.
• Time needed: about 1 hour for the main loop, 1.5 hours if you stop to rest along the way.
• When to go: the shade keeps it cool even at midday in summer, and a light drizzle makes the greens look deeper still. Going right after opening helps you avoid tour groups.
• Combine with: Darangswi or Yongnuni Oreum and Sehwa Beach make an easy day in eastern Jeju.