Bongeunsa Temple

Bongeunsa stands on the slopes of Sudosan in Samseong-dong, Gangnam, directly across the road from COEX. Tiled roofs and pine trees in the middle of a forest of glass towers make a striking contrast. Together with nearby Seonjeongneung, its woods are called the "lungs of Gangnam". Today it belongs to the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. In the Joseon era, when Buddhism was suppressed, this great temple kept the tradition alive by hosting the state examinations for monks.

History: the heart of Joseon Buddhism

The temple is said to have been founded in 794, under the Silla king Wonseong, by the State Preceptor Yeonhoe; sources differ on its first name: Gyeonseongam or Gyeonseongsa. In 1498 Queen Jeonghyeon, second queen of King Seongjong, rebuilt it as the temple caring for Seongjong's tomb, Seolleung, and it was renamed Bongeunsa, "temple honouring the king's grace", a name that carries prayers for Seongjong's soul.

In the mid-16th century Queen Munjeong, mother of King Myeongjong, appointed the monk Bou as abbot in 1548 and in 1551 made Bongeunsa the head temple of the Seon (Zen) school, a status it kept until 1936. She also revived the abolished examinations for monks and held them here; Seosan and Samyeong, who later became famous monks, passed these exams, held from 1552 to 1564, and went on to serve as abbots of Bongeunsa. After Queen Munjeong's death the anti-Buddhist faction regained power and Bou was soon killed. In the late Joseon period this large temple, just across the Han River from the walled capital, was a favourite haunt of scholars such as Jeong Yak-yong and Kim Jeong-hui. In 1902 the Korean Empire named Bongeunsa one of the country's 14 major temples. Under Japanese rule it was a head temple overseeing branch temples in Seoul and southern Gyeonggi; sources differ on their number: 78 or 80. During a flood the abbot Cheongho spent the temple's wealth to save more than 700 local people; sources differ on the date: the Great Flood of 1925, or 1922 and 1929. A fire in 1939 destroyed many buildings and the Korean War caused more damage, but the Panjeon hall survived, and it still holds the woodblocks of the 80-volume Flower Garland Sutra.

What to see

• Panjeon: the hall housing the woodblocks of the Flower Garland Sutra carved in 1855 under the monk Yeonggi. The two characters 版殿 on its signboard were written by Kim Jeong-hui (Chusa) while he was staying at the temple late in life, and they are counted as his last masterpiece.
• Main hall Buddha triad: the wooden seated Shakyamuni triad made in 1651 by the sculptor-monk Seungil, a Treasure and a key work of 17th-century Buddhist sculpture.
• Seonbuldang: the building where the Joseon-era examinations for monks were held, listed as Seoul tangible cultural heritage, as are the Panjeon hall and signboard and the wooden statues of the Four Heavenly Kings.
• Maitreya Buddha: a 23-metre statue enshrined in January 1996 after ten years of preparation by the temple, about 5 m taller than the famous Eunjin Maitreya at Gwanchoksa in Nonsan.
• Yeongsanjeon and Buddhist paintings: around ten late-Joseon works, including the sixteen arhat statues of Yeongsanjeon, paintings in the main hall and the large hanging scroll brought out for major ceremonies, are listed as Seoul tangible cultural heritage.
• Layout: beyond Jinyeomun and the Beobwangnu pavilion, the three-storey stone pagoda, Seonbuldang, Jijangjeon, Yeongsanjeon, Bukgeukbojeon and the bell pavilion are grouped around the way to the main hall. Check the temple map at the entrance to plan your route to Panjeon and the Maitreya statue.
• Jinyeomun: the first gate, called Jinyeomun instead of the usual Iljumun; its name means entering the truth of things as they are.

Good to know

The land now occupied by COEX and the Trade Center once belonged to Bongeunsa, and the Trade Center is said to stand on Seunggwapyeong, the field where the monks' examinations took place. In 1964 it became the training centre of the Korean University Buddhist Students' Federation, the start of organised student Buddhism in Korea, and in 1972 the Dongguk Institute for translating the Buddhist canon into Korean was based at the temple. Among its treasures is a bronze incense burner inlaid with silver from 1344, in the Goryeo period, engraved with 103 characters recording when it was made and by whom.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: the entrance is about 100 m from Bongeunsa Station (Line 9), exit 1. From Samseong Station (Line 2), exit 6, it is about 600 m; from Cheongdam Station (Line 7), exit 2, about 800 m.
• Combine with: Seonjeongneung, the royal tombs of kings Seongjong and Jungjong, is a 10-minute walk away. Continue across the road to COEX to see how modern Gangnam has grown over the temple's former land.
• Temple stay: the temple runs temple-stay programmes open to foreign visitors, including baru gongyang, the formal monastic meal eaten from a set of bowls. Check dates on its website.
• Events: besides Buddha's Birthday, the temple holds events such as a New Year bell-ringing ceremony; see the temple calendar on its website.
• Etiquette: keep quiet inside the halls and avoid taking photos during services.
• Photos: from the main courtyard and the slope above it, Gangnam's towers rise behind the tiled roofs, the classic view of Bongeunsa.
• When to go: around Buddha's Birthday the grounds are covered with paper lanterns.
• Time needed: about an hour to walk around the temple.