Bongseonsa Temple

In the foothills of Unaksan in Namyangju, Bongseonsa, whose name means "serving the late king", was named to pray for the soul of King Sejo of Joseon, who lies in Gwangneung right next door. Unusually for a Korean temple, the main hall's name board and the couplets on its pillars are written entirely in Hangeul, the Korean alphabet, and in summer a broad lotus field fills the ground in front. It is the head temple of the Jogye Order's 25th district and combines easily with the Gwangneung forest for a day out.

History: from Unaksa to Bongseonsa

Tradition says the temple began in 969, under King Gwangjong of Goryeo, when the national preceptor Tanmun built a temple on the slopes of Unaksan and called it Unaksa. In 1469, Queen Jeonghui, Sejo's widow, buried her husband on this mountain at Gwangneung, made the temple his memorial temple and renamed it Bongseonsa. King Yejong gave it a name board in his own hand, and in 1551 it was designated the head temple of the doctrinal school.

Burned during the Japanese and Manchu invasions, the temple was rebuilt in 1637 by the monk Gyemin and repaired again in 1749 and 1848. It burned once more in the Korean War, and today's buildings date from rebuilding that began around 1960. Today Bongseonsa presents itself as carrying on both the doctrinal-school tradition and the Seon (Zen) lineage. Under Japanese rule, Kim Seong-suk, later a cabinet member of the Provisional Government, and the monk Unheo, who devoted himself to translating scriptures into Korean, lived here. The writer Yi Kwang-su, Unheo's cousin, also retreated here for a time, and a memorial stone to him stands at the entrance.

What to see

• Keunbeopdang (Great Dharma Hall): the main hall's board reads "Keunbeopdang" in Hangeul rather than Chinese characters, and all the pillar couplets are in Hangeul too. They were written by the calligrapher Geum In-seok (1921–1992) at the request of Unheo, who championed making Buddhism accessible. The hall is a registered national heritage item.
• Bronze bell (Treasure): an early Joseon temple bell, seen in the bell pavilion.
• Vairocana triple-body hanging painting (Treasure): a huge Buddhist painting hung outdoors for major ceremonies and kept in storage the rest of the time.
• Lotus field: about 3,300 m² of lotus ponds in front of the temple are at their best in July and August, when a lotus festival has been held every year since 2003.

Nearby

• Gwangneung: the tomb of King Sejo and Queen Jeonghui, part of the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty World Heritage site. It is the reason the temple got its name, so the two belong together.
• Korea National Arboretum (Gwangneung Forest): an arboretum protecting the old forest around Gwangneung, open by advance reservation.
• Sujongsa: a branch temple of Bongseonsa overlooking Dumulmeori, also in Namyangju and easy to fit into the same trip.

Tripto tips

• Access: always open, with a car park.
• Getting there: the temple is near the entrance to the Gwangneung forest and easiest to reach by car. Plan a route with Gwangneung and the National Arboretum.
• Time needed: 45 minutes to an hour for the temple; 2 to 3 hours with Gwangneung.
• Best time: summer for the lotus, autumn for the colours of the Gwangneung forest. Keep quiet in the halls and avoid photography during services.