Boriam Hermitage, Namhae

Boriam is a hermitage set into the cliffs near the summit of Geumsan in Namhae, surrounded by strangely shaped rocks. Together with Hongnyeonam at Naksansa in Yangyang and Bomunsa on Ganghwa Island, it is counted among Korea's three great prayer sites of Avalokiteshvara, so worshippers come and go all day, and from the courtyard the islands and sea of Hallyeohaesang National Park spread out below. It is also a well-known spot for watching the sunrise.

History: how Boguangsan became Geumsan

According to tradition, in 683, the third year of King Sinmun, the monk Wonhyo built a hut here and, after encountering the Bodhisattva of Compassion while meditating, named the mountain Boguangsan and his hut Boguangsa. Later Yi Seong-gye is said to have prayed on the mountain for a hundred days before founding the Joseon dynasty; in gratitude the mountain was named Geumsan, "silk mountain", as if wrapping it entirely in silk. In 1660 King Hyeonjong made the temple a royal prayer hall and renamed it Boriam.

What to see

• Three-story Stone Pagoda: A pagoda close to the summit, designated a tangible cultural heritage of South Gyeongsang. Legend says Wonhyo enshrined relics brought from India by Queen Heo, wife of King Suro of Gaya, but its thick roof stones point to the Goryeo period. The setting made it famous.
• Halls and the Sea Avalokiteshvara statue: Bogwangjeon, the bell pavilion, Ganseonggak and other halls are stacked between the rocks, and there are always people praying before the statue of Avalokiteshvara facing the sea.
• Manbuljeon: A hall whose inner walls are lined with thousands of small golden Buddha figures.
• Meditation rock and rock formations: The rock where Wonhyo is said to have meditated, plus Daejangbong, Hyeongniam, Hwaeombong, Irwolbong and Sambulam, ring the hermitage.
• Ssanghongmun: Twin cave openings through the rock, rated the finest of Geumsan's 38 scenic spots on a mountain nicknamed the "rock zoo" for its animal-shaped boulders.

The mountain

Geumsan is a rare large granite mountain in the archipelago, yet it has deep soil too and carries the largest deciduous woodland on the south coast. Almost every rock has a Buddhist legend attached, and so many look like animals that the mountain is nicknamed the "rock zoo". Views over deep blue sea and green fields make it one of the signature viewpoints of Hallyeohaesang National Park, and the site of an old beacon station survives on the summit.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: By car, follow the road past Bokgok Reservoir in Idong-myeon to the car park high on the mountain, then walk to the hermitage. A hiking trail through the forest also climbs from the Geumsan entrance in Sangju-myeon.
• Fees: Entry is KRW 1,000 per person and car parking KRW 5,000. Visitors aged 70 and over and some other groups enter free with proof.
• Hours: The hermitage is open 03:30–20:00, and many people walk up before dawn for the sunrise.
• Trail closures: As part of Hallyeohaesang National Park, some trails may close during the spring (March–April) and autumn (mid-November to mid-December) wildfire seasons. Check the park's notices.
• Time needed: Allow 90 minutes to 3 hours for the walk from the car park, the hermitage and the views.