Boseoksa Temple, Geumsan

On the south-eastern slopes of Jinaksan in Geumsan, Boseoksa is a temple better known for the tree in its courtyard than for its halls. A ginkgo believed to be more than 1,000 years old stands here as a Natural Monument, and a fir-lined path of about 300 m leads up to the gate. The temple also keeps the memory of Yeonggyu, a monk who led a militia in the Imjin War.

A temple named after gold

Boseoksa is said to have been founded by the monk Jogu in the late Silla period; sources give the date as 866, 885 or 886. Its name, "jewel temple", comes from the story that its Buddha statue was cast from gold mined in the rock of the mountain facing the temple.

The grounds hold the main hall (Daeungjeon), Gihwadang, Uiseongak and a mountain-spirit shrine. Uiseongak is where Yeonggyu, who raised a monk army and died fighting the Japanese invasion of 1592, practised meditation, and a stele to the monk-soldier general stands nearby. The main hall enshrines a wooden Sakyamuni Triad (a South Chungcheong provincial heritage) that typifies 17th-century Buddhist sculpture.

A ginkgo more than a thousand years old

The Boseoksa ginkgo was made a Natural Monument in 1990. It is 25.9 m tall with a girth of 10.5 m at chest height (some sources give a greater height), and its age was put at over 1,000 years when it was listed. Countless shoots 2–3 m tall sprout from its base, which gives it an unusual look.

Jogu and his disciples are said to have planted it when the temple was founded. Local tradition holds that the tree makes a sound when trouble is coming: it is said to have cried at liberation in 1945, at the start of the Korean War in 1950 and during the great drought of 1992. Villagers still treat it as a sacred guardian.

Yeonggyu and the Battle of Geumsan

Yeonggyu was a monk who raised a force of fighting monks when the Japanese invaded in 1592. He fell at Geumsan fighting alongside the militia leader Jo Heon, and the fallen of that battle are honoured at Geumsan's Chilbaeguichong, the "Tomb of the Seven Hundred". Uiseongak and the monk-soldier stele at Boseoksa keep his memory alive. The temple and stele were listed as South Chungcheong cultural heritage materials in 1984.

The fir path and surroundings

The fir-lined path at the entrance is only about 300 m long, but the tall, straight trees make it a lovely walk. Follow the sound of the stream uphill and the ginkgo is the first thing to greet you. Seokdongji reservoir and the Jinaksan caves are nearby for a scenic drive.

Tripto tips

• Opening: open at all times, every day, with free admission. The car park takes 20 cars and 10 coaches.
• When to go: autumn, when the ginkgo turns golden, is the most popular time. In summer the fir path and stream are pleasantly shady.
• Time needed: about an hour to walk the fir path and see the ginkgo, main hall and Uiseongak.
• Getting there: the nearest exit is Geumsan IC on the Tongyeong–Daejeon Expressway; follow National Route 13 and Boseoksa-ro. Driving from central Geumsan is easiest.
• Combine with: the Geumsan ginseng market and the Chilbaeguichong shrine make a full day in Geumsan. Please keep your voice down inside the halls.