Dapdong Cathedral (St. Paul's Cathedral, Incheon)

On a hill in the old treaty port of Jemulpo, Dapdong Cathedral is the red-brick and granite seat of the Catholic Diocese of Incheon. Its three bell towers stand out from afar, and as one of the oldest Western-style church buildings in Korea, first built in the 1890s, it belongs on any walk through Incheon's historic port district.

History: from Jemulpo parish to cathedral

Jemulpo parish was founded in July 1889, when its first priest, Father Wilhelm, celebrated the first Mass. Parish records put the laying of the cornerstone in August 1895 and the consecration in November 1896, while other sources give 1897 as the year of construction. The design was by Father Coste of the Paris Foreign Missions Society, and the church was enlarged to its present form in 1937 to a design by Father Sizaret of the same society. Standing in Jemulpo, the gateway to Seoul and a hub of foreign trade, it soon became a landmark of Incheon. The Sisters of St. Paul of Chartres arrived in 1893 and opened an orphanage, followed by a girls' vocational school in 1899 and the Bakmun School in 1909, making the parish a centre of local education and welfare. It was designated a national Historic Site on 25 September 1981.

What to see

• Façade and three towers: a tall central tower flanked by two smaller ones emphasises the building's height. In each tower, eight small stone columns support an octagonal domed belfry.
• Brick and granite: red brick walls combine with white granite steps and arched doorways, in a style that mixes Gothic and Romanesque elements.
• Stained glass: long arched windows fitted with stained glass in 1979–1980 fill the interior with colour.
• The wall behind the church: climb the steps at the back to find an old ivy-covered wall.

Good to know

• The church covers about 991 m² (300 pyeong).
• Mother Teresa visited the cathedral in 1985.
• Together with the Anglican church on Ganghwa Island, also from the 1890s, it ranks among the oldest Western-style modern buildings in Korea.

Nearby

• Incheon Chinatown: about 1.2 km away; together with the streets of treaty-port-era buildings it paints a picture of old Jemulpo.
• Wolmido: a seaside area about 2.8 km away, a little beyond Chinatown, with open sea views.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: the grounds are always open and free. Avoid touring the interior during Mass and keep quiet inside.
• Getting there: the address is 2 Uhyeon-ro 50beon-gil, Jemulpo-gu, Incheon (Dap-dong). It is walkable from Dongincheon Station on Seoul Subway Line 1, and there is free parking.
• Photos: stand below the front steps to fit all three towers in one frame. The red brick looks warmest in afternoon light.
• Time needed: 30 minutes for the cathedral, or half a day combined with Chinatown and the old port streets.