Deokjinjin Fort, Ganghwa

Deokjinjin stands on Ganghwa Island's east coast, overlooking the Ganghwa Strait, the narrow channel between Gimpo and Ganghwa. It was the most important of the forts guarding the island in the late Joseon period, and during the American expedition of 1871 it saw the fiercest artillery duel with the US fleet. Visit it together with Chojijin to the south and Gwangseongbo to the north and the tension of Korea's last years before opening to the world becomes very real.

Key link in Ganghwa's defences

Since Goryeo times the Ganghwa Strait had been the gateway by sea to the capitals of Gaegyeong and later Hanyang. After the Manchu invasion of 1636, Joseon lined Ganghwa's coast with forts, garrisons and watch platforms, and Deokjinjin belonged to the island's twelve garrison posts.

In 1666 the garrison moved to its present site at Deokpo, and in 1679 it was given command of the Yongdu and Deokjin watch platforms and the Deokjin and Namjang batteries. That made it known as the strongest battery on the strait.

Two foreign incursions

During the French campaign of 1866, Korean troops under Yang Heon-su passed through Deokjinjin on their way into Jeongjoksanseong Fortress, where they defeated the French. Five years later, in 1871, Deokjinjin traded fire head-on with the American ships sailing up the strait. But once US troops had landed at Chojijin to the south and advanced overland, Deokjinjin fell too, and the low parapets behind which its defenders fought were destroyed.

The walls and gate tower were rebuilt in the mid-1970s, and replica cannons of the period were placed in the Namjang battery. The fort became a national Historic Site in 1971.

What to see

• Gongjoru gate tower: a pavilion three bays wide and two deep set above an arched gateway. Raised on a high stone base, it is easy to spot from the coast road.
• Namjang Battery: a battery built along the shore, with replica Joseon cannons in each emplacement. The Gimpo shore across the strait looks almost within reach.
• Deokjin Watch Platform: a lookout platform attached to the fort, used to watch ships moving through the strait.
• Haemun Bangsu stele: erected by the Heungseon Daewongun, the regent, it reads "Guard the sea gate; foreign ships must not pass" (海門防守他國船愼勿過). No other relic states Korea's closed-door policy so bluntly.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: 09:00–18:00, open all year. Fees can change, so check with the Ganghwa County tourism line (+82-32-832-3031).
• Time needed: 30–60 minutes for Deokjinjin alone, or 2–3 hours if you follow the coast to Chojijin and Gwangseongbo.
• Getting there: county buses run from Ganghwa Bus Terminal but are infrequent. The forts are strung along the coast road, so a car or bicycle is easiest. Parking is free.
• Best time: spring and autumn for walking. The view over the strait from the Namjang battery is best around sunset.
• Combine with: Ganghwa Nadeulgil Route 2, the "Hoguk Dondae-gil", passes Deokjinjin, and Jeondeungsa Temple inside Jeongjoksanseong is just over 10 minutes away by car.