Dodong Seowon

Where the Nakdong River makes a wide bend in Dalseong County, south-west of Daegu, the buildings of Dodong Seowon climb a hillside one terrace at a time. The academy honours Kim Goeng-pil, one of the Five Sages of Joseon Neo-Confucianism, and in 2019 it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as one of the nine "Seowon, Korean Neo-Confucian Academies". The giant ginkgo at the gate and the carefully built earth-and-tile walls alone make the trip worthwhile.

History: from Ssanggye Seowon to Dodong Seowon

The academy began in 1568 as Ssanggye Seowon, founded by local scholars at the foot of Biseulsan. After it burned down during the Japanese invasions, the scholar Jeong Gu led its rebuilding on the present site in 1605, and it was first named after the village of the time. When the king granted it an official name board, it became Dodong Seowon, "the Way has come east", meaning that the teaching of Confucius had reached Korea. Sources differ on the year of the royal charter: 1607 or 1610. The village was renamed Dodong-ri at the same time, and in 1678 Jeong Gu himself was enshrined here as well.

It was one of only 47 academies that survived the regent Heungseon Daewongun's order of 1865 to close the seowon, so its early 17th-century layout remains largely intact. The lecture hall, the shrine and the walls around them are designated together as a Treasure, and the whole complex became a Historic Site in 2007. Its survival and the quality of its architecture mean it is often listed among Korea's five great academies.

The "Seowon" World Heritage Site

The World Heritage listing groups nine Joseon-era Neo-Confucian academies: Sosu in Yeongju, Namgye in Hamyang, Oksan in Gyeongju, Dosan in Andong, Piram in Jangseong, Dodong in Dalseong, Byeongsan in Andong, Museong in Jeongeup and Donam in Nonsan. Dodong stands out for how strictly its teaching and ritual spaces are lined up along a single axis up the slope, which is why it is often presented as a textbook example of seowon architecture.

What to see

The buildings follow the classic seowon layout, rising from front to back and from bottom to top. Walking slowly from the gate up to the shrine is the best way to read the design.

• The ginkgo ("Kim Goeng-pil tree"): the huge tree at the entrance is said to have been planted by Jeong Gu to mark the rebuilding. It is described as about 8.8 m around and 25 m tall, and is more than 400 years old. Autumn, when it turns gold, draws the biggest crowds.
• Suwollu and Hwanjumun: the first building behind the ginkgo is the Suwollu pavilion. The little gate above it, Hwanjumun, is so low that a scholar in a traditional hat had to bow to pass through.
• Jungjeongdang: the lecture hall stands on a high platform said to be built from stones that disciples brought from all over the country in memory of their teacher, which explains why no two look alike.
• East and west dormitories: the students' lodgings face each other across the courtyard in front of the hall.
• The walls: layers of earth and roof tiles form patterns as the walls step up the slope. Walls with Treasure status are a rarity.
• The shrine: at the top, the shrine holds the spirit tablets of Kim Goeng-pil and Jeong Gu. Its doors are usually closed.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: open 10:00–17:00 every day; admission and parking are free, and there are toilets.
• When to go: autumn, when the ginkgo turns yellow, is the most popular time. For a quiet visit, come on a weekday morning.
• Getting there: the academy lies on the Nakdong River well south-west of central Daegu, so a car is the easiest option.
• Nearby: Songdam Seowon is about 1.2 km away and Gaegyeongpo Memorial Park about 1.6 km.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to 1 hour for the academy itself. Follow on-site signs on whether you may step onto the wooden floors.
• Phone: +82 53-616-6407.