Gayasan Mountain

Gayasan is a rocky 1,433 m mountain on the border of Hapcheon (South Gyeongsang) and Seongju (North Gyeongsang), with Haeinsa Temple, home of the Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks, on its southern slopes. It was long counted among the "eight great views of Joseon" and became Korea's ninth national park in 1972. The mountain has two faces: forest trails climbing from Haeinsa, and the jagged Manmulsang rock ridge on the Seongju side.

A mountain of myth and scholars

The name is bound up with the founding myth of the Gaya confederacy. The mountain goddess Jeonggyeon Moju is said to have borne two sons to a heavenly god; the elder founded Daegaya and the younger Geumgwan Gaya. Traditionally Gayasan was also believed to be safe from the three calamities of fire, flood and wind.

Another well-known story says that Choe Chi-won, the great scholar of late Silla, withdrew to this mountain in his final years and vanished. Along the Hongnyudong Valley leading to Haeinsa, a pavilion and rock inscriptions are linked to his legend.

Two summits and Manmulsang

The summit area has two peaks of almost the same height. Sangwangbong (1,430 m) on the Haeinsa side has a broad top and was long regarded as the main peak, while Chilbulbong (1,433 m) on the Seongju side is 3 m higher and the true summit. They are only minutes apart, so you can stand on both.

The Manmulsang ridge, climbed from Baegun-dong in Seongju, is lined with strange rocks said to resemble elephants, toads and Buddhas, and is often compared with the Manmulsang of Geumgangsan in North Korea. It was closed to the public for about 40 years until 2010, which helped the rocks and forest stay in good condition. The route goes up and down a lot over bare rock and is fairly demanding.

Climbing from Haeinsa

The most popular route climbs from Haeinsa through the Tosingol valley to Sangwangbong. The forest is deep and the path follows a stream, so it stays relatively cool even in summer. In Chiin-ri behind Haeinsa, a standing Buddha carved into a huge boulder is worth a stop on the way. If a full climb is too much, walk the Gayasan Sori-gil, a gentle path along the Hongnyudong Valley to Haeinsa with the sound of running water all the way.

The national park and Haeinsa

Gayasan National Park was designated on 13 October 1972 and covers about 76 km². Its flagship species are an alpine plant, the Gayasan saussurea, and the leopard cat. On the southern slopes, Haeinsa holds the Goryeo-era Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks, and the halls that store them became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Most hikers combine the climb with a visit to the temple.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: allow 4–6 hours for either Haeinsa–Sangwangbong or Baegun-dong–Manmulsang–Chilbulbong and back. Add Haeinsa itself and it becomes a full day.
• Entry cut-off times: the Sangwangbong (Haeinsa) and Manmulsang (Baegun-dong) routes have set entry times, after which you may not start up in the afternoon. Check the seasonal times on the Korea National Park Service website and set off early.
• Best seasons: late October to early November for autumn colour is the most popular time. In winter the summits are covered in hoarfrost, but the rock sections ice up and crampons are essential.
• Getting there: intercity buses from Daegu's Seobu bus stop run to the terminal just below Haeinsa. The Baegun-dong side in Seongju is easier to reach by car.
• Safety: both summits are rocky and windy. Leave plenty of time for the descent; hiking after dark is not permitted.