Dumulmeori

Dumulmeori means "where two waters meet head to head". Here in Yangseo-myeon, Yangpyeong, the Bukhangang (North Han), which flows down from the Geumgangsan mountains, joins the Namhangang (South Han), which rises at Geomnyongso spring below Geumdaebong in Taebaek, and together they become the Han River. Even the village name, Yangsu-ri (兩水里), is simply the Chinese-character spelling of "two waters". Other words for such a meeting of rivers include hapsumeori and dumeori, written in Chinese characters as isudu or yangsudu.

A ferry crossing where rivers meet

As a meeting point of two rivers, Dumulmeori was long a busy ferry landing. Its scenery was famous enough to be painted by the Joseon artist Jeong Seon (Gyeomjae). Today it is an eco-tourism spot with riverside walks and lotus ponds, and it has been included in the Korea Tourism Organization's "100 places to visit in Korea".

What to see

• The zelkova tree: a zelkova over 400 years old standing alone on the riverbank is the symbol of Dumulmeori, and the view of the tree against the water is the most photographed scene here. Fresh green in spring, deep shade in summer, autumn colour and bare winter branches bring photographers back every season.
• Hwangpo sailboat: a traditional ferry boat with a yellow sail floats in front of the tree, recalling the old crossing.
• Morning mist and sunrise: the mist rising off the river at dawn, and the sunrise behind it, bring photographers out before first light.
• Pontoon bridge and Semiwon: a bridge of linked boats connects Dumulmeori with the neighbouring Semiwon water garden. It recreates the boat bridge King Jeongjo had laid across the Han River in the late Joseon period so he could visit the tomb of his father, Crown Prince Sado. Semiwon's name expresses the idea of cleansing the mind by looking at water and beautifying it by looking at flowers.

Good to know

The riverbank often appears in Korean dramas and films. The riverside path is part of the Dumulmeori Naru section of the Pyeonghae-gil trail in Gyeonggi Province, and many walkers follow it from Ungilsan Station past Semiwon and Yangsu Station. The section runs for about 15.2 km, roughly five hours on foot, from Ungilsan Station via Semiwon, Yangsu Station, the stele of the scholar Yi Deok-hyeong and the birthplace of the independence activist Yeo Un-hyeong to Sinwon Station. On the riverbank a marker stone carved "Dumulgyeong" names this as the first view of the Han River.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: always open, free admission. The Dumulmeori tourist information centre can be reached on 031-775-8700. On the bank, a large wooden frame lets you take a picture of the view as if it were hung on a wall. There is a car park and toilets.
• Getting there: take the Gyeongui–Jungang Line to Yangsu Station and walk towards the river. Drivers can use the Dumulmeori car park.
• When to go: mist forms best on spring and autumn mornings when nights are cool. Lotus blooms in summer and the autumn colours of the zelkova are also lovely.
• Time needed: about 1 hour for the riverbank and the tree, or 2 hours if you cross to Semiwon. Semiwon has its own admission fee and hours, and the pontoon bridge is sometimes closed for safety checks.