Sujongsa Temple

Halfway up Ungilsan, Sujongsa looks straight down on Dumulmeori (Yangsu-ri), where the North Han and South Han rivers meet. The early Joseon scholar Seo Geo-jeong is said to have called it the temple with the finest view in the East, and today it is also known for a tea room where you can sip tea while looking out over the water. The temple and its surroundings are designated a Scenic Site.

History: the bell legend and Jeong Yak-yong

The temple is said to date from the Silla period, but its early history is unknown. Its name comes from a legend about King Sejo. In 1458, returning from Geumgangsan, he spent a night at Yangsu-ri and was woken by the sound of a bell. Following it, he found eighteen arhat statues in a rock cave, where water dripping from the rock rang like a bell. He built a temple here and called it Sujongsa, "water bell temple". However, the stupa of Princess Jeongui, Sejo's aunt, stands in the grounds, which suggests the temple was already sizeable before then.

The Silhak scholar Jeong Yak-yong loved the place, comparing his time here to the joys of a gentleman, and the monk Choui, revered as a master of Korean tea, is said to have visited him here to drink tea together. Damaged in the Korean War, most of the buildings are modern reconstructions.

What to see

• The Dumulmeori view: from the courtyard and viewpoint you see the two rivers meeting and the ranges beyond. It is the same scene painted by Jeong Seon in his "Dokbaektan".
• Samjeongheon: a tea room with large windows over the river, continuing the tea story of Choui and Jeong Yak-yong.
• Octagonal five-storey stone pagoda (Treasure): an early Joseon octagonal pagoda; Buddha statues and relics found inside are also Treasures.
• Stupa (Treasure): erected under King Sejong and traditionally identified as Princess Jeongui's; the reliquary found inside is also a Treasure.
• Ginkgo trees: the ginkgo said to have been planted by King Sejo is about 500 years old and draws visitors when it turns gold in autumn.

Nearby

• Dumulmeori: head down to the riverbank you saw from above for the old zelkova tree and morning mist; about 20 minutes by car.
• Dasan historic site: Jeong Yak-yong's birthplace and tomb, a natural follow-up to Sujongsa.
• Ungilsan: a trail continues above the temple to the summit.

Tripto tips

• Access: always open, with free admission and free parking.
• Getting there: a steep, narrow mountain road leads to the car park below the temple. From there it is about 400 m, roughly 15 minutes on foot. Many people also hike up from the Ungilsan Station side on the Gyeongui–Jungang Line.
• Time needed: 1 to 2 hours including the walk up, the grounds and the tea room.
• Best time: misty early mornings and the autumn foliage season. In winter the path can be icy, so take care.