Eungbongsan, Seoul

On the Han River in Seongdong-gu, Eungbongsan is a rocky hill under 100 m high, yet from the pavilion on top you see the meeting of the Han and Jungnangcheon streams, Seoul Forest and Gangnam across the river at a glance. In spring the whole hill turns yellow with forsythia, earning it the nickname "forsythia mountain", and at night photographers gather with tripods for the city lights.

The falconers' peak

Eungbongsan straddles Geumho-dong and Eungbong-dong and is about 95 m high. Early Joseon kings are said to have hunted with falcons here, so it was called Maebong, "falcon peak", or Eungbong in Sino-Korean. The cliffs below dropped sheer to the river and made a natural fishing spot, listed as one of the ten views of the Joseon capital.

In Joseon times the hill had the Dongho Dokseodang, a study retreat for young scholars, and several pavilions, while the Dongbinggo ice store stood to the south. Today it is a neighbourhood park, with history and culture panels around the traditional pavilion on the summit.

The view from the top

• Pavilion view: the Han–Jungnangcheon confluence, Seoul Forest and Namsan are close by; on clear days you can see Cheonggyesan and Umyeonsan. Migratory birds gather at the confluence.
• Forsythia slopes: in late March and early April the rocky slopes turn bright yellow. Gyeongui–Jungang Line trains passing below are the classic shot. A forsythia festival is held around the pavilion when the flowers bloom.
• Night view: lights on the Gangbyeon Expressway and the bridges trace the river, so people keep coming up after dark.
• Climbing park: an artificial climbing wall, a playground and badminton courts sit at the foot of the hill.

The hill also appeared in the TV dramas Angel Eyes and It's Okay, That's Love.

Beyond forsythia season

The forsythia lasts only a few weeks, but the summit view is good all year. Around the pavilion stand eleven panels on local history and culture, so you can read about the Dongho Dokseodang study retreat and the Dongbinggo ice store while taking in the view. From above you can also clearly see the Han and Jungnangcheon meeting and the channels dividing, a sight particular to this hill.

Combine with Seoul Forest

Past the pavilion, a dirt path heads down towards Seoul Forest across the Jungnangcheon. Climb from Eungbong Station and descend to Seoul Forest, or stroll in the park first and climb Eungbongsan around sunset for the night view; either makes an easy half-day. The Seongsu-dong café streets are within walking distance too.

Tripto tips

• Opening: always open, free.
• Getting there: from Eungbong Station, Exit 1 (Gyeongui–Jungang Line) it is about 900 m to the pavilion: past the mural alley and playground, then up the wooden steps. A dirt path leads down the other side to Seoul Forest, so you can continue on foot.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour up and down from Eungbong Station.
• When to go: late March to early April for forsythia, and around sunset. Expect crowds on forsythia weekends.
• Night photography: space around the pavilion is tight. Arrive about 30 minutes before sunset to find a spot, and bring a torch for the dark steps.