Geumdangsa Temple

At the southern entrance to Maisan, on the path up to Tapsa, Geumdangsa is a temple many visitors walk straight past. Yet this small temple keeps a 17th-century hanging scroll painting 9.66 m tall, designated a national Treasure. Add a courtyard that looks up at Maisan's rock peaks and a Goryeo-era stone pagoda, and it is worth half an hour on the way to Tapsa.

A founding story with gaps

Tradition says Geumdangsa was founded in 814 by Hyegam, a monk from China. However, the 16th-century geography Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungnam lists only Sangwonsa, Hyeoramsa and Swaeamsa on Maisan, with no mention of Geumdangsa, so it is unclear when the temple came to stand here. After a long decline, the Jijangjeon hall was rebuilt in 1978, followed by the main hall and the Samseonggak shrine. Geumdangsa is a branch temple of Geumsansa, the head temple of the Jogye Order's 17th district.

Heritage worth finding

• Geumdangsa Gwaebultaeng (Treasure): a gwaebul is a huge Buddhist painting hung in the courtyard for major ceremonies. This one shows Avalokitesvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, standing alone on a canvas 9.66 m long and 4.97 m wide. The crown is covered with tiny Buddha faces, phoenixes fly on either side, and the flame-patterned halo holds ten small Buddhas on each side. It was painted in 1692 by the monk-painter Myeongwon and three others, in vermilion softened with greens, pinks and white; the face is drawn large in proportion to the body, with small, delicate features. Together with the hanging paintings of Tongdosa and Muryangsa, it is counted among the masterpieces of richly ornamented late 17th-century gwaebul, and it became a Treasure in 1997.
• Wooden Amitabha triad: the central Amitabha raises both hands with thumb and ring finger touching, while the two bodhisattvas wear ornate crowns and chest jewellery and hold lotus stems. Their rounded bodies and gentle faces point to the late 17th century. They are a provincial Tangible Cultural Heritage.
• Stone pagoda: a small pagoda in the grounds with three storeys left; it probably once had five. Its style points to the Goryeo period.

A stop on the way to Tapsa

From the Maisan south car park, the path to Tapsa passes Geumdangsa and then runs along the Tapyeongje reservoir. In autumn the maples along the path spill into the temple courtyard, and from the yard you can see Maisan's rocky peaks rising above the ridge. Since most people head straight for Tapsa, the courtyard is usually calm.

Seeing Geumdangsa first lets you compare two very different faces of Maisan's temples. Geumdangsa is a conventional temple with halls, paintings and statues, while Tapsa is famous for the countless stone towers piled up beneath the rock peaks. The path between them is fairly gentle, so it suits children and older walkers too.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: about 30 minutes for Geumdangsa, half a day if you continue to Tapsa and Eunsusa.
• Seeing the gwaebul: the scroll is only hung outside for major ceremonies, so it is not always on view. Ask the temple in advance if you want to see it.
• Etiquette: ask before taking photos inside the main hall and pass quietly during services.
• Getting there: the Maisan south car park is about 15 minutes by car from Jinan town. Walking from the car park towards Tapsa, you reach Geumdangsa first. Check Jinan County's information for current park admission and parking fees.
• Best time: April for cherry blossoms and late October to early November for autumn colours, which are also the busiest weeks.