Jeondong Cathedral

From the entrance to Jeonju Hanok Village, a red-brick bell tower rises above the tiled roofs. Jeondong Cathedral is famous as one of Korea's most beautiful churches, but the ground it stands on carries a heavier story: it was built on the execution site outside Pungnammun Gate where Catholics were put to death in the Joseon era.

History: from martyrdom site to cathedral

In 1791, during the Sinhae persecution, Yun Ji-chung and Gwon Sang-yeon, regarded as the first Catholic martyrs in Korea, were executed here outside Pungnammun. In 1801, during the Sinyu persecution, the brothers Yu Hang-geom and Yu Gwan-geom, Yun Ji-heon and other believers from the Honam region died on the same spot. After the faith was tolerated, the French missionary Father Baudounet bought the land in 1891 and opened a temporary church.

Construction of today's building began in 1908, the exterior was finished in 1914, and after years of interior work the church was consecrated in 1931. It was designed by Father Poisnel, who had worked on Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul. From 1937 to 1957 it served as the cathedral of the Diocese of Jeonju, and in 1981 it was designated a Historic Site.

What to see

• Façade and three domes: Byzantine-style domes crown the tall central bell tower and the two stair towers. The body of the church is Romanesque, built in grey and red brick that gives a striped effect. It was the first Romanesque building in the Honam region.
• Foundation stones: when work began in 1908, the builders used stones from the demolished wall of Jeonju fortress near Pungnammun, torn down by the Japanese Residency-General. Some bricks were fired from the earth of the same wall. The wall where believers were executed became the foundation of their church.
• Interior: a barrel-vaulted nave with cross-vaulted aisles, and stone columns with Byzantine-style details.
• Rectory: the priests' residence next to the church is also a listed modern heritage building.

Good to know

• The cathedral is a popular film and drama location and a favourite venue for weddings.
• It is still an active parish church, dedicated to St Francis Xavier.

Nearby

• Gyeonggijeon Shrine: directly across the street, home to the portrait of King Taejo, so a Joseon royal site and an early modern church are only minutes apart.
• Pungnammun Gate: the south gate of Jeonju's old walled town and the only one left standing when the others were removed in 1905. The wall stones that became the cathedral's foundations came from near this gate. Today it links the Hanok Village with Nambu Market.
• Jeonju Hanok Village and Jeonju Hyanggyo: the lanes of the Hanok Village start right behind the church, and a little further on is the Confucian school of Jeonju Hyanggyo, first founded in the Goryeo period.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: the interior is open 09:00–17:00, except during Mass. Admission is free.
• Etiquette: people come here to pray, so keep your voice down and avoid very short clothing. Follow the signs on site regarding photography inside.
• Photos: for the full façade, stand across Taejo-ro by the Gyeonggijeon wall. The brick glows red in the late afternoon.
• Time needed: 20–40 minutes for the exterior and interior. It is a natural starting point for a walk through the Hanok Village with Gyeonggijeon and Pungnammun.