Gilsangsa Temple

Gilsangsa, on a hillside in Seongbuk-dong, began life as Daewongak, one of Seoul's best-known high-end restaurants for entertaining guests. Its owner Kim Young-han donated the land and buildings to the monk Beopjeong, and it became a temple in 1997. Small halls and paths scattered through the woods make it a quiet place to pause in the middle of the city.

History: from a restaurant to a temple

Around 1985, Kim Young-han asked Beopjeong to build a temple with her fortune. He declined for years, but after almost a decade of requests he accepted. The site was first registered as a branch of Songgwangsa in 1995 and opened under the name Gilsangsa in 1997. "Gilsang" means auspicious, and it was also the old name of Songgwangsa. Beopjeong had already opened a Paris branch of Songgwangsa under the same name in 1993.

Kim Young-han is known as the lover of the poet Baek Seok, who called her "Jaya". She is said to be the Natasha of his poem "Natasha, the White Donkey and I". Asked whether she regretted giving away such a fortune, she reportedly replied that it was worth less than a single line of his poetry. She received the Buddhist name Gilsanghwa and, when she died in 1999, asked for her ashes to be scattered in the temple grounds on a snowy day.

At the opening ceremony in December 1997, Cardinal Kim Sou-hwan attended and gave a speech, and Beopjeong returned the gesture with a talk at Myeongdong Cathedral the following year. Beopjeong died at Gilsangsa in 2010.

What to see

• Geungnakjeon: The main hall. Many buildings were converted from the restaurant days, giving the temple a different feel from a mountain monastery.
• Gwaneum statue: A stone figure of the Bodhisattva of Compassion by the Catholic sculptor Choi Jong-tae, with gentle features that recall statues of the Virgin Mary.
• Seolbeopjeon: The hall used for large Dharma talks.
• Seven-storey pagoda: Donated by a Protestant believer, it is presented as a symbol of harmony between religions.
• Jinyeonggak: Holds Beopjeong's portrait and personal belongings.
• Memorial stone for Gilsanghwa: On the slope behind Gilsangheon stands a stone honouring Kim Young-han.
• House of Silence: Anyone can sit here in quiet meditation, except on Sundays when Dharma services are held.

Tripto tips

• When to go: In autumn, red spider lilies bloom across the grounds and draw many photographers. The deep green of early summer is lovely too.
• Time needed: About an hour at a slow pace. Combine it with other Seongbuk-dong sights for a half-day walk.
• Opening: 09:00–18:00, open all year. There is no admission fee.
• Getting there: From Hansung University Station (Line 4), Exit 6, take village bus Seongbuk 02 to the temple gate. Walking up through the lanes of Seongbuk-dong is another option.
• Etiquette: Many areas are used for practice and are off limits. Keep your voice down and do not photograph monks without asking.
• Programmes: Templestays and retreats are offered, but dates and content change every year, so check in advance.