Heuksando Island

Heuksando is an island far out in the Yellow Sea, south-west of Mokpo. Its name means "black mountain island", because from a distance its forested hills look so dark they appear black. The island covers about 19.7 km² and is almost entirely mountainous. It is known for a road that climbs in twelve hairpin bends, a coastal road lined with rock formations, and hongeo, fermented skate.

History: a stepping stone at sea and an island of exile

Heuksando forms the Heuksan Islands with neighbouring Hongdo, Daedundo, Yeongsando, Gageodo and others. As a stopping point on sea routes it was settled early. Legend says Sangnasanseong Fortress was built by Jang Bogo, and in Eupdong village you can see the site of Heuksanjeong, a Goryeo-period lodge where envoys' ships stayed. Under King Sukjong of Joseon, a naval post was set up here to guard the south-west coast.

Its remoteness also made it a place of exile. Jeong Yak-jeon, banished here during the Sinyu persecution of Catholics in 1801, stayed for many years and wrote Jasaneobo, a record of the island's marine life. The late Joseon Confucian scholar Choe Ik-hyeon was also exiled here, and sites linked to both men remain. The island became part of Sinan County in 1969.

What to see

• Twelve-Bend Road (Yeoldugubigil): A road that zigzags up to Sangnabong. From the top, the winding road, the sea and the surrounding islands fit into one view. At the pass stands a monument to Lee Mi-ja's song "Heuksando Agassi" ("Girl of Heuksando").
• Coastal ring road: A road around the island passes almost all its main sights and historic sites.
• Chotdaebawi (Candlestick Rock): A pillar of rock rising like a candlestick, popular for watching the waves break against it.
• Kokkiri Bawi (Elephant Rock): Also called Hole Rock, an arch in the sea that looks like a stone gateway.
• Baenanggimi Beach: A wide sandy beach on Heuksando.

Good to know

Heuksando is the island of hongeo. Many visitors make a point of trying Heuksando skate while they are here. The area is part of Dadohaehaesang National Park.

Historic sites on the island loop

The coastal ring road also passes most of the island's heritage. The Choryeongmok tree was once a Natural Monument; legend says a broken branch placed on a Buddhist altar summons spirits. Nearby are an evergreen grove and a village shrine to the guardian spirit. Elsewhere are a group of dolmens, a three-storey stone pagoda, a three-tier stone lantern and the Banwolseong wall.

Heuksando has eight classic views, the Heuksan Palgyeong. The best known are Munamchangsong, the evergreen forest covering Munamsan; Songjeonmangwol, watching the harvest full moon in front of a pine; and Myeongsasipri, the white sand stretching in front of Jin-ri village. Munamsan, the highest peak, reaches 400 m and Gitdaebong 378 m, so you can also hike up for views over the island and sea.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: Fast ferries run from Mokpo Port Passenger Terminal to Heuksando and Hongdo. Hongdo is about 30 minutes from Heuksando by boat, so many travellers combine the two in an overnight trip. The distance from Mokpo is given as about 92–97 km depending on the source.
• Weather: The crossing is in open sea, and sailings are often cancelled. Leave some slack on your return day.
• Getting around: The island is mountainous, so the ring road is best done by vehicle rather than on foot. The Twelve-Bend Road has tight bends, so drive carefully.
• Time: Allow at least half a day to a full day for the island tour and a meal.