Huinnyeoul Culture Village

On the cliffs of Yeongdo island in Busan, a row of small white-walled houses clings to the edge, looking out over the anchorage where big ships wait at sea. Huinnyeoul Culture Village began as a hillside settlement where refugees from the Korean War scraped together a living; today residents and artists run it together as a culture village. Its role as a filming location for the film "The Attorney" put it on many travellers' Busan itineraries.

History: a name from water like falling snow

"Huinnyeoul" means "white rapids". The name comes from the many streams that once tumbled down from the foot of Bongnaesan to the sea, looking like falling snow. In the summer monsoon, water is said to have poured down the village steps like a waterfall. Long seen simply as a steep, poor hillside neighbourhood, the village changed in December 2011, when empty houses were renovated into spaces for culture and art. Appearances in films and TV followed, abandoned homes found new owners, and cafés and small shops multiplied.

What to see

• Huinnyeoul-gil: the narrow lane running along the clifftop village, with the sea always just over the wall.
• "The Attorney" steps: the steps in front of the house used as the main character's home in the film are now a popular photo spot. The village also appears in the films "Nameless Gangster: Rules of the Time" and "First Love Rally" and in the TV show "Infinite Challenge".
• Jeolyeong Coastal Walk: steps lead down from five points in the village to a path right beside the sea. It runs about 2 km to the Jungni haenyeo (women divers) village; some sources give 3 km.
• Huinnyeoul Coastal Tunnel: a tunnel on the coastal walk whose lighting and framed view of the sea make it a favourite photo spot.
• Ships at anchor: the water off the village is an anchorage, so dozens of large ships ride at anchor on any given day.

Nearby

• Yeongdo Bridge: a bascule bridge about 2 km away; at set times its deck is raised.
• Taejongdae: a clifftop coastal park at the southern tip of Yeongdo, where a road train runs out to the lighthouse viewpoint.
• Jagalchi Market: Busan's best-known fish market, just across Yeongdo Bridge, a good dinner stop after the village.
• Gamcheon Culture Village: another hillside culture village with refugee-era roots, about 4 km away, interesting to compare with Huinnyeoul.

Tripto tips

• Access: always open and free.
• Respect residents: people live here. Do not peer into homes or make noise, especially early in the morning and late in the evening.
• Parking: there is no car park in the village itself. Use the on-street public parking by the Jeolyeong Coastal Walk or a nearby public car park and walk in. Weekends are busy, so the bus is often the better choice.
• Time needed: 1 to 2 hours for the village and the coastal tunnel. Sunset, with the sun going down over the sea and the ships' lights coming on, is a good time.
• Combine with: Yeongdo Bridge, Taejongdae and the National Maritime Museum make a full day on Yeongdo.