Hyochang Park

Hyochang Park in Yongsan-gu, Seoul, is a Historic Site where Kim Koo and other leaders of the independence movement are buried. Walking paths wind through pine woods, so at first glance it looks like an ordinary neighbourhood park, but each grave here tells part of the story of Korea's fight for independence. Combined with the Kim Koo Museum inside the park, it is a calm way to follow a chapter of modern Korean history.

History: from royal tombs to independence fighters

The site was originally Hyochangwon, a Joseon royal burial ground. Crown Prince Munhyo, King Jeongjo's eldest son, his mother Royal Consort Uibin Seong, King Sunjo's consort Suk-ui Park and her daughter Princess Yeongon were buried in the pine forest. During the Sino-Japanese War of 1894 some 300 Japanese soldiers camped in the pine woods in front of Hyochangwon and damaged the forest. Japanese troops were stationed here again during colonial rule, and in 1921 Korea's first golf course was laid out with the graves still in place. The area later became a park and the royal tombs were moved to Seosamneung in Goyang.

After liberation, in 1946, Kim Koo brought the remains of the patriots Lee Bong-chang, Yun Bong-gil and Baek Jeong-gi here, and the Provisional Government leaders Lee Dong-nyeong, Jo Seong-hwan and Cha Ri-seok were buried alongside them. Kim Koo himself was laid to rest here after his assassination in 1949. In the 1950s plans to move the graves and build a stadium caused a long dispute. In 1956 the National Assembly unanimously passed a motion, pushed by lawmakers including Kim Du-han, calling for the work to stop, but construction went ahead and Hyochang Stadium opened in 1960. Other structures, such as an anti-communist memorial tower in 1969, were added beside the graves over the years, and the park was finally designated a Historic Site in 1989.

What to see

• Tombs of the Three Martyrs: next to the graves of Lee Bong-chang, Yun Bong-gil and Baek Jeong-gi is a fourth, empty grave. It was made to honour An Jung-geun's wish to be buried in his homeland and will receive his remains if they are ever found.
• Tombs of the Provisional Government leaders: the graves and memorial stones of Lee Dong-nyeong, Jo Seong-hwan and Cha Ri-seok stand side by side.
• Kim Koo's grave: on the slope above the Kim Koo Museum.
• Uiyeolsa Shrine: built in 1990 to hold the portraits of seven patriots. It is normally closed and opens on special days such as Independence Movement Day (1 March).
• Woods and paths: the park covers about 12 hectares with more than 100,000 trees of some 70 species. Pine woods and cherry trees make spring walks especially pleasant, and there is a statue of the Silla monk Wonhyo.
• Kim Koo Museum & Library: besides the original manuscript of Baekbeom Ilji, Kim Koo's autobiography, it displays the pocket watch Yun Bong-gil swapped for Kim Koo's old one before his attack, and the blood-stained clothes Kim Koo wore when he was shot.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: 8–10 minutes on foot from exit 1 of Hyochang Park station (Line 6 and the Gyeongui–Jungang Line).
• Kim Koo Museum: Tuesday–Sunday 10:00–18:00 (until 17:00 in winter), closed on Mondays, admission free.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for the graves and the museum.
• Etiquette: this is a place of remembrance, so keep your voice down and do not picnic at the graves. Around 1 March and Liberation Day (15 August) many people come to pay their respects.