Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine

On a cliff above the Han River in Hapjeong-dong, Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine marks the place where large numbers of Catholics were executed during the persecution of 1866. A riverside walk with views of Yanghwa Bridge, a church holding martyrs' relics and a museum are gathered in one compact site, which makes it a thoughtful stop for anyone interested in late Joseon history, Catholic or not.

History: from Silkworm Head Peak to Beheading Mountain

The rocky peak was originally called Jamdubong, Silkworm Head Peak, after its shape. Below it lay the Yanghwa ferry landing, which linked Hanyang with Gimpo; tax-grain boats and cargo ships called here, and the scenery was fine enough for Chinese envoys to be taken boating. In 1866 the regent Heungseon Daewongun launched the Byeongin Persecution, and when a French fleet sailed up the Han as far as Yanghwajin the same year, he ordered an execution ground set up on the peak. From then on it was known as Jeoldusan, the mountain of beheadings. The persecution continued for several years and is recorded as the one that produced the most martyrs in Korean Catholic history.

What to see

• Memorial hall and pilgrimage church: built to mark the centenary of the persecution and opened in October 1967. Its roof, standing on the cliff, recalls a scholar's gat hat, the wooden cangue placed around prisoners' necks and their shackles.
• Relic chamber: an underground space holding the relics of 28 Korean martyr saints.
• Museum: artefacts from the early Korean church, belongings of the martyrs and instruments of torture used in prison, plus a series of works depicting the life of Father Thomas Choe Yang-eop.
• Outdoor grounds: a statue of Saint Andrew Kim Taegon, a bust of Saint Nam Jong-sam, a memorial to the Park Sun-jip family, sixteen of whose members were martyred, and an anti-Western cheokhwabi stele from the Daewongun's era.

Good to know

• The Yanghwa ferry and Jamdubong area was designated a national Historic Site in 1997.
• Pope John Paul II visited the shrine in 1984.
• Right next door lies the Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery, resting place of foreign missionaries who worked in Korea from the late 19th century, and many visitors combine the two.

Nearby

• Yanghwajin Foreign Missionary Cemetery: just across the wall, with the graves of the Underwood family, Ernest Bethell, Homer Hulbert and others.
• Han River Park (Mangwon and Yanghwa sections): go down to the riverbank below the shrine for cycle paths and walking trails.
• Hongdae: about 1.6 km away, so an afternoon at the shrine and an evening in Hongdae fit together well.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: the memorial hall and museum are open 09:30–17:00 and closed on Mondays. There is no ticket; the site relies on voluntary offerings from pilgrims.
• Getting there: the address is 6 Tojeong-ro, Mapo-gu (Hapjeong-dong). From Hapjeong Station (Lines 2 and 6) you can walk towards the river. Parking is available.
• Etiquette: masses and prayers take place throughout the day, so keep your voice down in the church and relic chamber.
• Time needed: allow 1 hour for the shrine and museum, or about 2 hours with the missionary cemetery and a riverside walk.