Mujin Old Fortress Site

East of central Gwangju, in the woods on a northern spur of Mudeungsan, lies an old mountain fortress with a circuit of about 3.5 km. The Mujin Old Fortress Site was in use from late Unified Silla into the Goryeo period and carries Mujin, the old name of Gwangju. Hiking trails follow its moss-covered stone walls, so a light walk takes you along fortifications more than a thousand years old.

History: a fortress built twice

The walls form an oval around Jangwonbong (386 m), a northern spur of Mudeungsan, following the ridges to Jangdaebong (350 m) at Jatgogae pass and around the hills inside the No. 4 reservoir. The fortress measures about 1,000 m north to south and 500 m east to west, with a circuit of roughly 3,500 m, a sizeable site. It is a pogok-style fortress, enclosing both peaks and a valley.

Chonnam National University Museum excavated it twice, in 1988 and 1989. The work suggests that the fortress was first built in the late 8th or early 9th century, abandoned in the mid-9th century, rebuilt in the late 9th century and used until the 12th century. It was listed as a Gwangju Metropolitan City Monument on 20 March 1989.

What to see

• Stone walls: builders cut the ridge into an L-shape about 70–90% of the way up, laid around five courses of stone at the base and packed rubble between the stones and the slope. Along the trail, sections of wall still stand high, so you can study the stonework up close.
• On top of the wall: in places the path runs along the top of the wall, showing how the fortress follows the ridgeline.
• Building sites: 17 building foundations have been identified inside the walls. Most now lie hidden under the trees.
• What was found: roof-tile fragments stamped with the characters for "office" and "state fortress", end tiles decorated with auspicious birds and goblin faces, and shards of plain and inlaid celadon. A bird-pattern end tile from a building south of Jatgogae drew particular attention for a design not seen anywhere else.

What kind of fortress?

Tiles inscribed "office" and "state fortress" suggest an important site with links to local government. Whether it is the "Old Mujin Commandery Fortress" mentioned in the geography section of the Annals of King Sejong is disputed, and some see it as a mountain refuge fortress behind the town. Either way, it shows what fortifications in the Gwangju area looked like in the Unified Silla and Goryeo periods.

Tripto tips

• Access: a hillside site with no admission charge, open at all times. Trails are dark after sunset, so go in daylight.
• Starting point: the walls run across the Jatgogae area behind Duam-dong, Buk-gu, and along the ridges by the No. 4 reservoir. Climbing from the Jatgogae side to the wall sections is the easiest route to follow.
• Time needed: about 1 hour to see part of the walls and come back down; allow 2–3 hours if you continue to Jangwonbong.
• Best time: spring and early summer, when the woods are green, and autumn, with fallen leaves underfoot, are best for walking. In high summer the vegetation round the walls gets thick.
• What to bring: the path mixes earth and stone steps, so wear hiking boots or trainers with good grip.