Naesosa Temple

At the foot of the inland Byeonsan mountains on the Byeonsan Peninsula, Naesosa is remembered for its approach as much as for the temple itself. A shaded avenue of some 700 fir trees leads from the first gate to the Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings, and beyond it stands the Main Buddha Hall, its paint long faded so the bare grain of the wood shows through. Its carved flower lattices and the huge painting of the White-Robed Avalokitesvara on the back wall are the reasons people make the trip.

History: a Baekje temple rebuilt in Joseon

The monk Hyegu Duta founded the temple in 633, the 34th year of King Mu of Baekje, under the name Soraesa. At one time there were two temples, a large Dae-Soraesa and a small So-Soraesa; the larger one burned down, and today's Naesosa is said to stand on the site of the smaller.

All its buildings were lost during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, and in 1633 the master Cheongmin rebuilt the temple. The Main Buddha Hall from that rebuilding is a designated Treasure. In the last years of the Korean Empire, men from nearby villages who later became prominent figures, such as Kim Seong-su, Song Jin-u and Baek Gwan-su, are said to have lived and studied here for long periods.

What to see

• Fir forest path: the shady avenue from the first gate to the Heavenly Kings gate was named one of Korea's 100 most beautiful roads. The trees were reportedly planted when the temple was rebuilt, to bring life to a bare entrance.
• Main Buddha Hall (Treasure): three bays by three under a hipped-and-gabled roof, with bracket sets placed between the columns as well as on top of them. Every door carries finely carved lotus and chrysanthemum lattices, and with the paint almost gone the natural wood stands out all the more.
• White-Robed Avalokitesvara: painted on the back of the wall behind the altar, it is the largest surviving painting of its kind in Korea. Walk round to the rear of the hall to see it.
• Goryeo bronze bell (Treasure): a 103 cm bell cast in 1222. It originally hung at Cheongnimsa temple on Byeonsan and was moved here in 1850.
• Guardian zelkova: in the courtyard stands a zelkova said to be more than 1,000 years old, once revered as the village's protective tree.
• Three-storey pagoda and Seolseondang: the stone pagoda in the courtyard, Seolseondang hall and the monks' quarters are all designated provincial heritage.

Good to know

• Legend says the carpenter spent three years carving nothing but wooden blocks. A young monk hid one as a joke; the carpenter blamed his own lack of devotion, built the hall without it, and one block is still missing from the brackets today.
• Another tale says the painter asked that no one look inside for 100 days. A monk who peeked saw only a blue bird painting the ceiling with a brush in its beak.
• The scene in the drama "Dae Jang Geum" where Jang-geum throws a stone into a pond was filmed at the temple pond.

Nearby

• Byeonsan Peninsula National Park, inland section: a trail leads from the temple over Gwaneumbong junction and Jaebaegi Pass towards Jiksopokpo Falls.
• Seonunsa: Gochang's best-known temple, about 13 km to the south, an easy pairing in camellia or red spider lily season.
• Chaeseokgang and Byeonsan Beach: sights on the peninsula's west coast. Naesosa in the morning and the coast road in the afternoon makes a natural day.

Tripto tips

• Hours and fees: open from sunrise to sunset, every day, and admission is free. There is parking.
• When to go: the fir path is lovely all year, but autumn colour and snow scenes are especially famous. The path gets busy around midday at weekends, so come early.
• Hiking: from the temple via Gwaneumbong junction and Jaebaegi Pass to Wonam is 3.6 km (about 2 hours); via Jiksopokpo Falls to Sajadong it is 6.2 km (about 3 hours).
• Time needed: 1 to 1.5 hours for the forest path and temple grounds. A temple stay programme is also offered.