Baegyangsa Temple

At the end of a forest path a wide pond appears, and in it a two-storey pavilion and the white rock peak behind it are reflected upside down. Baegyangsa in Jangseong draws photographers every autumn for that one view. The temple and Baekhakbong peak were counted among the "Eight Views of Korea" in the past, and today it is the head temple of the 18th district of the Jogye Order, on Baegamsan within Naejangsan National Park.

History and the legend of the name

Tradition says the Seon master Yeohwan founded it in 632, under the Baekje kingdom, as Baegamsa ("White Rock Temple"). After a major rebuilding by the monk Jungyeon in 1034, under Goryeo, it was known as Jeongtosa.

The present name comes with a legend. In the reign of King Seonjo (late 16th century), the monk Hwanyang was giving a sermon when a white sheep came down from the mountain to listen. On the last night the sheep appeared in the monk's dream, bowed and said it had been turned into a sheep for its sins in heaven and could now return. The next morning it was found dead, and from then on the temple was called Baegyangsa, "White Sheep Temple". The temple burned several times; it was rebuilt in 1864 and remodelled by Seon master Manam in 1917. Texts by the scholar Jeong Do-jeon and poems by Jeong Mong-ju, Kim In-hu and others celebrate its pavilion.

What to see

• Ssanggyeru and Baekhakbong: the pavilion where two streams meet; its reflection and the white cliff of Baekhakbong appear together in the pond. The area was designated a national Scenic Site in 2008.
• Daeungjeon and Geungnakbojeon: Baekhakbong rises right behind the roof of the main hall. Geungnakbojeon is regarded as the oldest building at the temple.
• Torreya forest: some 5,000 nutmeg yews, 8–10 m tall, surround the temple. Tradition says the Goryeo monk Gakjin planted them so their nuts could be used to treat villagers for intestinal worms. The forest became a Natural Monument in 1962.
• Gobulmae: a plum tree that bears deep pink blossoms each year in late March. It was moved here when the temple was relocated in 1863, and became a Natural Monument in 2007.

Good to know

Jeong Kwan, a nun at Baegyangsa's Cheonjinam hermitage, has become internationally known for her temple cuisine. She appeared on Netflix's Chef's Table in 2017 and has influenced well-known chefs abroad. Templestay programmes here have included temple-food experiences.

Nearby

In and around the temple you will also find the Stupa of Great Master Soyo, a designated Treasure, and Cheongnyuam, a hermitage said to date from 1350 under Goryeo. Baegyangsa sits at the southern end of Naejangsan National Park, so many visitors combine it with the Naejangsan Cable Car and foliage roads on the Jeongeup side to the north. Jangseong Lake is also nearby.

Tripto tips

• Costs: admission and parking charges have changed over time. Car parking is listed at KRW 5,000 in peak season and KRW 4,000 off-peak; check before you go.
• Time needed: 1.5–2 hours from the car park along the forest path to Ssanggyeru and the temple; half a day with a hike up Baekhakbong.
• Best time: autumn foliage season is the most beautiful, but traffic is heavy. Come just after sunrise, when the air is still, for the best reflections. Don't miss the plum blossom in late March.
• Templestay: both retreat and experience programmes are available, booked online.
• Getting there: Baegyangsa Station on the Honam Line in Jangseong is named after the temple. Intercity buses run from the Jeongeup and Gwangju terminals, but can be infrequent. It pairs well with the Naejangsan foliage route.