Naju Geumseonggwan Hall

Naju Geumseonggwan was the gaeksa, the official guesthouse, of Joseon-era Naju. A gaeksa held tablets symbolising the king and lodged officials and envoys visiting the town, and Geumseonggwan's main hall is counted as the largest of all surviving Joseon guesthouses. It stands in the middle of Naju's old town, so it combines easily with the town's famous beef-soup alley.

The "ra" in Jeolla

The province name Jeolla combines the first syllables of its two great towns, Jeonju and Naju. Throughout the Goryeo and Joseon periods Naju was a leading city of the Honam region and the seat of a moksa, a senior magistrate in charge of a major county. Geumseonggwan stood at the heart of that government compound, which explains its unusual size and rank. "Geumseong" is an old name for Naju.

What was a gaeksa?

Every Joseon county had a gaeksa holding the jeonpae and gwolpae, tablets representing the king. On the first and fifteenth of every month the magistrate and his officials bowed towards the royal palace in a rite called manggwollye, and banquets were held here for officials and envoys from the capital. That made the gaeksa the highest-ranking building in town.

Geumseonggwan is said to have been built between 1475 and 1479, under King Seongjong, by Naju magistrate Yi Yu-in. The overall frame of the present building appears to date from a rebuilding in 1617, while details of the timberwork show techniques from repairs in 1775 and 1885. During the colonial period and for decades after liberation it served as the county office and later city hall, and its walls, floors and ceilings were altered; it was restored close to its original form in 1976 (some sources say 1977). It was designated a national Treasure in 2019.

What to see

• Hip-and-gable roof: the main hall, five bays wide and four deep, has a hip-and-gable roof whose sides form the shape of the Chinese character for eight (八). Most gaeksa halls have a plain gabled roof, so this is Geumseonggwan's most distinctive feature. The Daeseongjeon hall of nearby Naju Hyanggyo also has a hip-and-gable roof, which is seen as a local trait.
• A palace-like layout: the broad stone platform in front, the floor plan and the ceiling resemble a palace throne hall more than an ordinary guesthouse. Walk straight up the stone path across the courtyard to feel that sense of rank.
• Brackets: under the eaves, the roof rests on bracket sets of three stacked wing-shaped arms placed directly on the columns, mixed with elements of the more elaborate jusimpo style, a way of giving the building a grander look with limited means.
• Side wings: guest wings for officials and envoys adjoin the main hall on both sides.

Local memories

In 1592, when the Imjin War broke out, the militia leader Kim Cheon-il gathered volunteers here and held a ceremony before marching off. After Empress Myeongseong was assassinated by Japanese agents in 1895, memorial rites were reportedly held here as a show of anti-Japanese resolve. The original two-story gate tower, Manghwaru, is gone; its name board and inner gate were moved to Namsan Citizens' Park in Naju.

Tripto tips

• Time: 30 minutes is enough for Geumseonggwan itself. Add Jeongsuru, the gate of the old magistrate's office across the road, the magistrate's residence and Naju Hyanggyo for about 2 hours on foot.
• Food: the Naju gomtang (beef-bone soup) street is right in front. Have a bowl of the clear soup for lunch and then wander the old town.
• Best time: the courtyard is large with little shade, so spring, autumn or late afternoon are more pleasant than a midsummer noon.
• Getting there: from Naju Station, served by KTX, the old town is about 10 minutes by taxi, and city buses run too. Gwangju Songjeong Station is also close.