Palgongsan

Palgongsan is Daegu's guardian mountain, about 20 km northeast of the city centre, spreading across Daegu and several cities and counties of North Gyeongsang. A ridge of roughly 20 km runs east to west from the highest peak, Birobong (1,192 m), and the slopes are dotted with temples such as Donghwasa, Pagyesa and Eunhaesa, and the Gatbawi Buddha, said to grant one wish in a lifetime. In 2023 it became South Korea's 23rd national park.

History and name

The people of Silla revered it as the "father mountain" (Buak) or "central mountain" (Jungak) and offered sacrifices to heaven here; later it was known as Gongsan. In 927 Wang Geon, founder of Goryeo, fought the army of Later Baekje's Gyeon Hwon in the Battle of Gongsan on its slopes. Wang Geon escaped only after swapping armour with his general Sin Sung-gyeom, while Sin and Kim Nak were among those killed. Tradition says the name Palgongsan, "mountain of the eight lords", honours eight generals who died here. It became a provincial park in 1980 and was upgraded to a national park in 2023.

What to see

• Birobong: the highest peak, long closed because of military installations and open since 2009, with a restored altar for heavenly rites. Dongbong and Seobong rise on either side like wings.
• Gatbawi: on top of Gwanbong (850 m) sits a stone Buddha wearing a flat stone like a traditional gat hat. Because it is believed to grant one wish in a lifetime, many people climb up to pray. From the Daegu side, 1,365 steps climb up from Gwanamsa.
• Donghwasa: Daegu's best-known temple, famous for its huge Tongil Daebul Buddha statue.
• Pagyesa and Songnimsa: Pagyesa is linked to many stories about King Yeongjo of Joseon; Songnimsa is known for its five-storey brick pagoda.
• Gunwi Triad Buddha Grotto: a cave temple earlier than Seokguram in Gyeongju, also called the "Second Seokguram".
• Palgongsan cable car: opened in 1985, it climbs to Sinnimbong (820 m) with views over the ridges towards Daegu.

Good to know

Palgongsan is likened to a phoenix wrapping its wings around the Daegu basin: Birobong is the head, Dongbong and Seobong the wings. It has been named among the "100 Must-Visit Tourist Spots of Korea" several times, and the foothills are full of large cafés and restaurants serving mountain-vegetable bibimbap and pork belly with water parsley. Its roads are popular for spring-blossom drives.

Tripto tips

• Hours and fees: the national park is open all year and free to enter. Trails can be closed in bad weather, so check the live closure information of the Korea National Park Service.
• Gatbawi: the 1,365 steps are steep; bring water and shoes with a good grip.
• Getting there: city buses run from central Daegu to the main entrances such as Donghwasa and Gatbawi; check routes on Daegu's bus information service before you set out.
• Time needed: 2–3 hours for Donghwasa or the cable car, half a day for the Gatbawi climb, a full day to hike to Birobong.
• It is colder and windier on the summits than in the city, so pack an extra layer.