Pagyesa Temple

On the western slopes of Palgongsan, Pagyesa is a quiet temple wrapped in forest and streams, and a royal prayer temple with close ties to the Joseon court, above all to King Yeongjo. True to a name that means gathering the streams, a deep pond lies in front of the temple, and four halls frame a neat courtyard around the main hall, Wontongjeon.

History: Silla origins and a royal prayer temple

Temple tradition holds that the monk Simji founded Pagyesa in 804, in the reign of King Aejang of Silla. Wontongjeon, burned during the Japanese invasions, was rebuilt by Gyegwan in 1605, and the monk Hyeoneung carried out a major restoration in 1695. When the Avalokiteshvara statue in Wontongjeon was regilded in 1979, a dedication text found inside recorded a repair in 1447, showing that the temple already existed in early Joseon.

King Sukjong's dream and King Yeongjo

According to the temple's story, King Sukjong dreamt of a monk entering the palace and had him searched for; he turned out to be the monk Yeongwon of Pagyesa. Sukjong asked him to pray for the birth of a prince, and the boy born the following year became King Yeongjo. Whatever the truth of the legend, Yeongjo's bond with the temple is well documented. He wrote the signboard 'Jaeungjeon' himself and issued several decrees forbidding officials and aristocrats from drafting the monks for forced labour. In 1979, a robe worn by Yeongjo was found inside the Avalokiteshvara statue.

What to see

• Wontongjeon: the main hall dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, with a dry-lacquer seated Avalokiteshvara inside and a 2 m octagonal stone lantern in front.
• Jindongnu: a pavilion built in 1715 because the name alone was thought too weak to subdue the energy of the nine streams. With Wontongjeon, Seolseondang and Jeongmukdang it encloses a square courtyard.
• Giyeonggak: built to hold the memorial tablets of Kings Sukjong, Yeongjo and Jeongjo, with four murals on its outer walls telling the story of Sukjong and Hyeoneung.
• King Yeongjo's tree: a 250-year-old zelkova, the largest and finest tree in the precinct.
• The pond of the nine streams: the reservoir that gave the temple its name. It looks shallow but reaches 12 m deep, so never go in.

Good to know

• Pagye means holding the streams, a geomantic idea of stopping the land's energy from draining away along the valleys.
• The temple keeps a Yeongsan Hoesangdo painting designated a Treasure, as well as old documents relating to its royal patronage.
• The hermitage of Seongjeonam, higher up the mountain, displays the 'Jaeungjeon' signboard written by Yeongjo.

Nearby

• Palgongsan Nature Park: hiking trails start from the Pagyesa area, and the Palgongsan ring road is a fine autumn drive.
• Donghwasa: the head temple of the district to which Pagyesa belongs, on the southern side of Palgongsan and easy to combine.

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: 04:00–17:00, every day.
• Admission: some sources say entry has been free since May 2023 under the national policy of waiving heritage admission fees, while others still list a small fee. Car parking costs KRW 2,000.
• Getting there: the address is 741 Pagye-ro, Dong-gu, Daegu. City buses 101 and 101-1 run to the Pagyesa entrance car park.
• Guides: a cultural heritage guide is usually stationed at the entrance.
• Time needed: about 1 hour covers the precinct and the pond. Autumn colours make it especially beautiful.