Royal Tomb of King Suro

In the middle of Gimhae, a round grassy mound sits among lawns and pine woods. The Royal Tomb of King Suro is traditionally identified as the grave of King Suro, founder of Geumgwan Gaya (Garak), one of the Gaya confederacy states. As the founder of the Gimhae Kim clan he is still honoured with rites every spring and autumn, while locals use the grounds as a quiet city park.

History: the tomb of a king born from an egg

According to the "Record of Garak" in the Samguk yusa, Suro became the first king of Garak in AD 42, and in 48 he married Heo Hwang-ok, a princess who came across the sea from the land of Ayuta. The tomb is also called Napneung. When it was actually built is unknown.

The tomb was reasonably well kept through the Goryeo period but had fallen into neglect by early Joseon. Under King Sejong, marker stones were set up to protect the area around it, and in 1580 it was thoroughly restored to the form it has today; sources differ on whether the work was led by the provincial governor Heo Yeop or by Suro's descendant Heo Su. The tomb was looted during the Imjin War.

The stele in front of the mound dates from 1647, and the name of the shrine, Sungseonjeon, was granted by the king in 1884. The tomb was designated a Historic Site on 21 January 1963.

What to see

• The mound: a round earthen tumulus about 5 m high, with a stele, offering table, stone civil and military officials and animal figures in front.
• Sungseonjeon: the shrine holding the spirit tablets of King Suro and Queen Heo Hwang-ok, where rites are held each spring and autumn.
• Napneung main gate and Sunghwamun: the outer and inner gates, their doors painted with bold taegeuk symbols.
• Anhyanggak, Jeonsacheong and Jegigo: buildings that stored incense, prayer texts and ritual vessels for the ceremonies.
• Pond and woods: the large tomb park has a pond with a small island and pine woods for an unhurried stroll.

What lies inside?

The tomb has never been excavated. However, the Joseon-era book Jibong yuseol records that Japanese troops robbed it during the Imjin War, and from that account it is thought to be a large stone-chamber tomb. The same record mentions signs of retainer burial, in which people close to the king were buried with him.

Under King Sejong, marker stones were first set at 30 paces on each side of the tomb, and in 1446 the protected area was widened to 100 paces. Today the tomb park covers more than 18,000 pyeong (about 6 hectares).

Tripto tips

• Opening hours: March and October 08:00–19:00, April–September 08:00–20:00, November–February 09:00–18:00; open every day.
• Prices: free entry and free parking. Korean-language guiding is available by advance booking. Information: Suro tomb office 055-332-1094.
• Getting there: walk from Royal Tomb of King Suro Station on the Busan–Gimhae Light Rail, an easy ride from Busan.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour for the tomb, shrine and pond.
• Combine with: the Tomb of Queen Heo, the Daeseong-dong tumuli, Sureungwon park and Bonghwangdae-gil are all close, making a full Gaya day.