Seosomun Historical Park

Between Seoul Station and Chungjeongno, ringed by office towers, Seosomun Historical Park stands on the site of the Joseon dynasty's official execution ground. During the persecutions of Catholics in the 19th century so many believers died here that 44 of Korea's 103 Catholic saints were martyred on this spot. Beneath the park lies the Seosomun Shrine History Museum, which opened deep underground in 2019.

The crossroads outside Seosomun Gate

Seoul's old city wall had a small western gate, Seosomun (Souimun), between Sungnyemun and Donuimun. The crossroads outside it was where goods from the southern provinces came into the capital, and the busy Chilpae Market was nearby. The court chose this crowded place for executions precisely so that they would serve as a warning. Yi Seung-hun, the first Korean to be baptised, was executed here in the 1801 persecution; Jeong Ha-sang, author of a famous letter defending the faith to the chief state councillor, died here in 1839 with members of his family; and executions continued until the persecution of 1866–1873.

In modern times the area saw Korea's first Western-style Catholic church, Yakhyeon Cathedral (1892), the first railway lines out of Seoul and the city's first overpass. The Martyrs' Memorial Tower in the middle of the park was raised in 1999. In 2018 the Vatican approved the Seoul Catholic Pilgrimage Route, which includes Seosomun, as Asia's first international pilgrimage site, and Pope Francis visited the shrine during his 2014 trip to Korea.

What to see in the park and museum

• The park above ground: paths wind between trees and grasses. Look for the marker of the Ttukke Well, which indicates the execution site, and the memorial tower.
• Homeless Jesus: Timothy Schmalz's sculpture of Jesus lying on a bench under a blanket. You only realise who it is when you notice the nail wounds on his feet.
• Sky Plaza: a large courtyard at basement level 3 open to the sky, linking the underground museum to the park above and used for outdoor exhibitions and performances.
• Consolation Hall: inspired by the interior of the Goguryeo-era Muyongchong tomb, it holds the relics of five martyred saints and is lit only by daylight from above.
• Permanent galleries: they cover the intellectual changes of late Joseon and the history of the site, including "Sword of the Martyrs", a work modelled on a Joseon wooden cangue.

Tripto tips

• Hours: the museum is open Tuesday–Sunday 09:30–17:30 (last entry 17:00) and closed on Mondays. Both park and museum are free.
• Mass: held on Sundays at 11:00 and 15:00 in the underground St Paul Jeong Ha-sang Memorial Chapel.
• Getting there: the address is 5 Chilpae-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul. It is about a 10-minute walk from Seoul Station (Lines 1 and 4, Airport Railroad) or Chungjeongno Station (Lines 2 and 5).
• Time needed: 20–30 minutes for the park, about 1 hour 30 minutes including the museum.
• Etiquette: this is a martyrs' shrine where Mass is celebrated, so keep quiet in the Consolation Hall and the chapel.
• Combine with: Yakhyeon Cathedral, Seoullo 7017 and Sungnyemun Gate are all within walking distance for a half-day around Seoul Station.