Hwangudan Altar

Between the office towers and hotels near Seoul City Hall, a building with three tiers of octagonal roofs stands almost hidden. Hwangudan is the site of the altar where, in 1897, King Gojong offered sacrifices to Heaven, took the title of emperor and proclaimed the Korean Empire. Only part of it survives, but few places capture so clearly the brief moment when Korea presented itself as an empire equal to China and Japan.

History: a rite reserved for emperors

The round-altar sacrifice to Heaven was first made an official rite in 983 under King Seongjong of Goryeo. In the China-centred order of East Asia, however, only the Son of Heaven, the emperor, was supposed to perform it, so it was suppressed in early Joseon. King Sejo revived it briefly in 1457, but the last ceremony took place in 1464.

That changed in 1897. Returning from the Russian legation to Gyeongungung Palace (today's Deoksugung), Gojong renamed the country the Korean Empire and had a three-tier round altar built on the site of Nambyeolgung, a hall once used to receive Chinese envoys. It was designed by master builder Sim Ui-seok, and around 1,000 workers are said to have finished it in ten days. Gojong performed the rite here and ascended the imperial throne. Two years later, in 1899, Hwanggungu was added to house the spirit tablets.

In 1913 the Japanese colonial authorities demolished the main altar and built a railway hotel on the spot. Today the Chosun hotel occupies the site, and what remains is Hwanggungu, the stone drums and a stone gate. Hwangudan was designated a Historic Site in 1967.

What to see

• Hwanggungu: A three-storey octagonal shrine on a granite platform. Inside it is open from floor to roof, and the ceiling carries a seven-clawed dragon, the emblem of an emperor. Its round form reflects the old belief that heaven is round and the earth square.
• Three stone drums: Erected in 1902 to mark the 40th year of Gojong's reign, they represent the instruments used in the rite and are richly carved with dragons.
• The main gate: Sold off during urban redevelopment in the 1960s, it vanished for decades until it was found in 2007 on the grounds of a former hotel in Ui-dong, northern Seoul. In 2009 it was moved back and restored, reusing as much original material as possible.

Good to know

• You will see both Hwangudan and Wongudan used. The difference comes from two readings, "hwan" and "won", of the same Chinese character.
• To imagine the lost altar, look for photographs from the early 1900s: it was a three-tier round platform topped with a conical golden canopy.

Following the Korean Empire

Hwangudan is close to Gyeongungung (Deoksugung), where Gojong lived. For the enthronement rites in 1897, the emperor and crown prince are said to have processed here from the palace along a road lined with soldiers. You can still walk from Deoksugung across Seoul Plaza to Hwangudan, a good way to picture that procession. The main altar site is now covered by the hotel, but from the courtyard in front of Hwanggungu you can still get a sense of where it stood.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: In July 2025 the fences and walls around the main gate were removed and a garden was laid out, so the area is now open to everyone 24 hours a day. There is no admission fee, and a ramp makes it accessible by wheelchair. The interior of Hwanggungu is normally closed.
• When to go: At night the gate and Hwanggungu are lit, which gives the place a different mood. A lunchtime stroll is enough.
• How long: 20–40 minutes. Combine it with Seoul Plaza, Deoksugung Palace and Jeongdong-gil across the road to follow the story of the Korean Empire.
• Getting there: The site is around 112 Sogong-ro, Jung-gu. It is a short walk from City Hall Station on Seoul Subway Lines 1 and 2.