Suyeong Historical Park

The Busan place name "Suyeong" is a shortened form of Sugun Jeoldosayeong, a naval command headquarters. Suyeong Historical Park in Suyeong-dong occupies the site of the Gyeongsang Left Naval Command (Gyeongsang Jwasuyeong), which led the Joseon navy along Korea's south-east coast. The fortress is gone, but a gate, ancient trees, shrines and living folk traditions remain, giving you a very different side of Busan only a short way inland from Gwangalli Beach.

History: the navy base of the south-east coast

Gyeongsang Jwasuyeong was the naval command responsible for the south-east coast during the Joseon dynasty. With Geumnyeonsan behind it and the sea at today's Gwangalli in front, it occupied a strategically vital position. Almost nothing of the walls survives, but the fortress site and related remains are gathered in the park, and the site itself is protected as a Busan monument.

A neighbourhood walk

Suyeong Historical Park is a heritage site and an everyday local park at the same time. Tree-lined paths keep it shady even in midsummer, and locals know it as a place for a quiet break in the middle of the city. Follow the information boards slowly and you meet several eras of a Busan seaside community in one place: a Joseon naval base, volunteer fighters of the 1590s, village beliefs and mask dance.

What to see

• South Gate of Jwasuyeong Fortress: The fortress's southern gate, a Busan-listed tangible heritage site. With the walls gone, it is the best place to start imagining the size of the old base.
• Black pine and Chinese hackberry: Both the black pine (gomsol) and the Chinese hackberry (pujo tree) growing on the fortress site are Natural Monuments. They are the most impressive trees in the park, so look out for them.
• Altar of the 25 Righteous Fighters: During the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, after the naval commander abandoned the fortress, 25 remaining sailors and townspeople are said to have sworn a blood oath and fought the invaders for seven years. In 1609 the Dongnae magistrate Yi An-nul recorded their deeds and had a plaque reading "righteous courage" placed on each of their houses. Their memorial altar is a Busan monument.
• Shrine and memorial tower of An Yong-bok: Dedicated to An Yong-bok, a man of King Sukjong's time who is known for travelling to Japan and asserting that Ulleungdo and Dokdo belonged to Joseon.
• Village shrines: Small shrines to a grandmother and grandfather spirit, where Suyeong people prayed for the wellbeing of the community.
• Suyeong Folk Art Center: Preserves and performs local intangible heritage such as the Suyeong Yaryu mask dance, the Jwasuyeong Eobang-nori fishermen's songs and the jisinbapgi earth-spirit ritual.

Tripto tips

• Visitor info: Open at all times, every day, with free entry, parking and toilets.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to an hour for a walk and a look at the sites.
• Getting there: About 200 m north of the Suyeong intersection. The address is 43 Suyeongseong-ro, Suyeong-gu.
• Best time: Shady paths make it a good summer walk. Folk performances follow a set schedule, so if you want to see one, contact the centre in advance (+82 51-752-2947).
• Combine with: Gwangalli Beach is about 2 km away, so spend the morning in the park and the afternoon and evening by the sea.
• Guides: Korean-language guiding is available if you contact the centre in advance. To dig deeper into local folk culture, drop into the art centre to check its exhibits and performance schedule.