Wolseong Palace Site

Walk south from Cheomseongdae Observatory and a long, wooded ridge blocks the way. It looks like an ordinary hill, but this is Wolseong, where Silla's kings lived for close to a thousand years. The palace buildings are gone, yet the earthen ramparts, the moat and the remains slowly emerging from the ground still mark the heart of the Silla capital.

History: a half-moon palace

The fortress curves like a crescent, so it was called Sinwolseong ("new moon fortress") or Banwolseong ("half-moon fortress"), and also Jaeseong, "the fortress where the king resides". The name Banwolseong became common from the Joseon period. One theory holds that "Wolseong" itself, like Gyerim, renders an old Korean word for "rooster" in Chinese characters.

The Samguk Sagi chronicle says the fortress was built in 101 CE, when King Pasa moved his capital here. Recent excavations, however, show that the walls were begun in the mid-4th century and finished in the early 5th century, almost 250 years later than the written record. Under King Munmu the palace grounds expanded to take in the area of Donggung Palace, Wolji Pond and Cheomseongdae. The site was designated a national Historic Site in 1963 and is part of the Gyeongju Historic Areas UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Legend: a house won by a trick

Before the fortress was built, a man named Hogong lived on this hill. The young Seok Talhae won the land through a clever trick, and when King Namhae heard the story he made him his son-in-law, and Talhae later became the fourth king of Silla.

What to see

• The ramparts: the east, west and north sides were built of earth and stone, while the south used the natural cliff above the Namcheon stream. Walk along the top to feel the curve of the fortress.
• The moat: a defensive channel dug below the walls. The restored section on the north side reflects the trees in still water.
• Seokbinggo ice house: a stone store for ice, rebuilt here in 1741 after being moved from the west of Wolseong. It is a Joseon-era structure, not a Silla one.
• Excavation areas: digs continue across the interior. Areas under blue covers are still being investigated.
• East gate site: the remains of the gate that led to Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.

Nearby

• Cheomseongdae and Gyerim Forest: directly north. Walking through Gyerim to Cheomseongdae completes a loop of central Silla.
• Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond: the royal pond just east of Wolseong, especially popular when lit up at dusk.
• Woljeonggyo Bridge and Gyeongju National Museum: the reconstructed bridge over the Namcheon and the main museum of Silla treasures are both within walking distance.

Tripto tips

• Admission: open at all times and free. There is a car park.
• Facilities: there are no toilets inside the fortress, so use those at nearby sites first.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to 1.5 hours for the ramparts and the ice house. Some stretches have little shade, so avoid midday in summer.
• Route: Daereungwon → Cheomseongdae → Gyerim → Wolseong → Donggung and Wolji links the key sites of central Gyeongju in one walk.