Yongmunsa Temple, Namhae

On the slopes of Hogusan Mountain, Yongmunsa is regarded as the oldest temple in Namhae County. The story of how it ended up here is unusual: in 1660, Confucian scholars at the Namhae Hyanggyo (the local state Confucian school) objected to having a Buddhist temple facing their main gate and asked for it to be moved. In the valley where it resettled you can now see a Main Hall listed as a Treasure, a ceremonial banner painting more than 8 m tall and traces of the monk soldiers who fought in the Japanese invasions of the 1590s.

From Bogwangsa to Yongmunsa

The temple traces its lineage to Bogwangsa, said to have been founded by the monk Wonhyo on Geumsan Mountain, and some records date its founding to the reign of King Aejang of Silla. In 1660, the monk Baegwol chose the present site above Yongso village, moved the temple and named it Yongmunsa. Two halls, Tamjindang and Jeongmukdang, followed the next year, and the Main Hall was built in 1666.

During the Imjin War, monks from the temple rose as a monk militia and fought the Japanese. A samhyeolpo, a three-barrelled gun said to have been used by them, has survived. Under King Sukjong the temple was named Suguksa, "temple that protects the nation", and a royal prayer hall was added. The jade lanterns and candlestick sent by the court were taken away during the Japanese occupation, but the Suguksa wooden badge and a royal banner remain.

What to look for

• Daeungjeon Hall (Treasure): built in 1666 and thought to have been fully repaired by 1773, it was listed as a Treasure in 2014. It is a three-by-three-bay hall with a hipped-and-gabled roof. Look up under the eaves for dragon heads holding wish-granting pearls, and inside for the ornate canopy hanging above the altar.
• Gwaebul painting (Treasure): a huge Buddhist painting made in 1769 by the painter-monk Kwaeyun and others, 864 cm tall and 584 cm wide. It was hung outdoors for rites such as the water-and-land ceremony or prayers for rain, so it is normally stored away and shown only at major ceremonies.
• Stone seated Bodhisattva: found when the ground was dug up for rebuilding after the Korean War and believed to date from before the mid-Goryeo period.
• Myeongbujeon and the Budai shrine: look out for the Hall of Judgement, a provincial heritage site, and a small shrine to the pot-bellied monk Budai.

Tripto tips

• Getting there: the address is 166-11 Yongmunsa-gil, Idong-myeon, Namhae-gun. From Namhae town, drive through Yongso village in Idong-myeon up to the car park below the temple. Buses are infrequent, so a car or taxi is easiest.
• Visiting: the published visitor information lists the temple as open at all times, with free admission and parking. It is a working temple: keep your voice down and do not take photos inside the halls.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to 1 hour for the temple grounds; a hike via Baengnyeonam Hermitage to the summit of Hogusan and back takes about 1 hour 40 minutes.
• When to go: the Yongmunsa valley is lovely in autumn colour, and in summer the sound of the stream makes for a cool walk.
• Temple stay: the temple runs overnight temple-stay programmes; check dates and booking on the temple-stay website.
• Combine with: Boriam Hermitage on Geumsan and the German Village make a good one-day loop of south-western Namhae.