Andong Gu Market

Andong Gu Market sits in the middle of Andong's old town, a five-minute walk from Taesamyo Shrine and Ungbu Park, and it is the oldest market in the city. Andong jjimdak – chicken braised in a soy-based sauce with vegetables and glass noodles – made its name in the alleys here, and on days ending in 2 and 7 the five-day market adds to the bustle. A plate of jjimdak and a bag of salted mackerel make a good start to any trip around central Andong.

From five-day market to daily market

From the 1830s several markets were held every five days around Andong. The largest by about 1909 was Bunae Market, held on days ending in 2 and 7, where grain, cattle and fish changed hands alongside local specialities such as Andong hemp cloth and Andong soju. In 1963 it merged with Sindang Market and became a daily market, but the old 2-and-7 rhythm still shapes the busiest days. An arcade roof went up in 2002, a public car park opened in 2012, and in 2021 the entrance gates and ceiling lighting were redone.

How Jjimdak Alley came about

On the western side of the market is Jjimdak Alley, a lane packed with braised-chicken restaurants. It used to be where live and whole chickens were sold. As more universities opened nearby, customers wanted something bigger and cheaper than fried chicken, and the soy-braised jjimdak is said to have grown out of that demand. The alley was designated a theme street by North Gyeongsang Province in 2011. Jjimdak usually comes on a large platter meant for sharing, so it works best with two or three people.

What to see

• Jjimdak Alley: the restaurants sit shoulder to shoulder on the west side, and some have queues at mealtimes.
• Salted mackerel and seasonal fruit: far from the sea, Andong grew used to mackerel preserved in salt, and it is now a local signature. Many visitors take home cleaned, salted fish and fruit in season.
• Street-food stalls: the eastern side has a cluster of stalls for a quick snack.
• Clothing and household arcade: covered lanes lined with clothes and household goods shops, comfortable on a rainy day.

Around the market

The market is surrounded by the sights of old Andong. Taesamyo, a shrine to three men who helped found the Goryeo dynasty, is about 400 m away, and Ungbu Park, laid out on the site of the old Andong government office, is about 500 m away. The Unified Silla-era five-storey brick pagoda in Unheung-dong is also within walking distance. Imcheonggak, the family home of independence activist Yi Sang-ryong, is about 1.5 km away, a pleasant walk along the Nakdonggang River.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: 1–2 hours is enough for a loop of the market and a jjimdak meal.
• Market days: dates ending in 2 and 7 (the 2nd, 7th, 12th, 17th, 22nd and 27th) are the liveliest, with extra stalls.
• Restaurants: opening hours and days off vary by shop, and some close on Mondays, so check ahead if you have a particular place in mind.
• Getting there: Andong Station (KTX-Eum) and the Andong Bus Terminal right in front of it are about 5 km west of the market. Take a city bus heading downtown or a taxi. The station moved from Unheung-dong in the old town to Songhyeon-dong in December 2020, so ignore older directions.
• Parking: the lanes are narrow and roadside parking is difficult; use the market's public car park.