Chuwolsan Mountain

Rising over Damyangho Lake north of Damyang, Chuwolsan is only a little over 700 m high, but its sheer rock walls and dense pine forest make it feel far wilder than its height suggests. People come for Boriam, a small hermitage perched on a cliff just below the summit, and for the view down over the lake. Seen from Damyang town, the mountain's outline is said to resemble a monk lying down.

A mountain that nearly touches the moon

"Chuwol" means "autumn moon". The story goes that the peak is so high it almost brushes the full moon. Its height is given as 731 m or 729 m, depending on the source. The mountain straddles the border between Yong-myeon in Damyang and Bokheung-myeon in Sunchang, North Jeolla, and has long been ranked among the famous mountains of the Honam region. The whole mountain was designated a provincial monument in 1972, and it is on the Korea Forest Service's list of the 100 famous mountains.

Stories in the rock

• Boriam hermitage: just before the summit, a tiny hermitage sits on top of a rock wall. Legend says the Goryeo monk Bojo Guksa carved three wooden hawks and let them fly, building a temple wherever each one landed: Songgwangsa in Suncheon, Baegyangsa in Jangseong and Boriam on Chuwolsan. The view of Damyangho from Boriam's yard is superb.
• Imjin War and Donghak: together with nearby Geumseongsanseong Fortress, Chuwolsan saw fierce fighting during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s. The wife of righteous-army commander Kim Deok-ryeong is said to have died here to keep her honour, and it was also the scene of the Donghak peasant army's last stand in the 1890s.
• Spring and orchids: near Boriam is a spring said never to run dry, and wild orchids and many medicinal herbs grow on the mountain, which is known for its clear water and many springs.
• Damyangho Lake: since the reservoir was created at its foot, the rock peak has been paired with a lake. From the summit you can see the whole lake and the ridges around it.

On the trail

Trails start from the Chuwolsan car park at the edge of Damyangho Lake. The first stretch is a gentle path under old pines, but from halfway up it turns into steep climbs and stairs between the rocks. Do not underestimate it because of its modest height, and carry plenty of water. Some hikers continue along the ridge towards Gamakgol or Geumseongsanseong.

Tripto tips

• Time needed: allow half a day (3–4 hours) to reach the summit via Boriam and return, including rests. Even going only as far as Boriam gives you the lake view, and its yard is the best spot to photograph autumn colours and the lake together.
• Best time: autumn colours from late October to early November draw the most hikers. In summer, the pine shade at the foot of the mountain and the lake shore stay cool.
• Getting there: head north from Damyang town towards the lake, where there is a car park below the mountain. Public transport is limited to infrequent county buses, so a car is much easier.
• Watch out for: some trails may close during the spring and autumn wildfire-prevention periods. The rocky sections are slippery, so wear proper hiking boots.
• Combine with: after the hike, head into Damyang town for Juknokwon Bamboo Garden, the Metasequoia Road and the Gwanbangjerim riverside forest.