Dogapsa Temple, Yeongam

Dogapsa, on the south-western slopes of Wolchulsan in Yeongam, is said to have been founded by Doseon, Korea's great master of geomancy. Its entrance gate, Haetalmun, was built in 1473 and is a National Treasure, the oldest building in the temple. With Wolchulsan's flame-like granite peaks behind it and several national treasures within its grounds, the temple is both the starting point for hikes up the mountain and a destination in its own right.

Built where Doseon grew up

A temple called Munsusa once stood here, and Doseon is said to have spent his childhood in it. After growing up and travelling to China, he built Dogapsa on the old site. In 1473 the monks Sumi and Sinmi rebuilt it on a grand scale, and for a time it was a large monastery with many halls and hermitages. Most of it was later lost to war, including the Korean War, and a fire in 1977 destroyed even the main hall, which was rebuilt in 1981.

Don't miss

• Haetalmun Gate (National Treasure): its name means "gate of liberation from all worldly suffering". Of its three bays, the outer two hold guardian figures and the middle one is the passage. The outer board reads "Wolchulsan Dogapsa" and the inner one "Haetalmun". It is considered a rare example of a temple gate building in Korea.
• Stone Seated Buddha (Treasure): a Goryeo statue in Mireukjeon Hall, carved with its halo from a single block so that it looks almost like a rock-face Buddha. The broad nose and thick lips are rough, but the smile is warm.
• Five-storey stone pagoda (Treasure): an early Goryeo pagoda in front of the main hall. Its lower base was found during excavations, and in 2002 it was restored on its original two-tier base; it now stands 5.45 m tall.
• Stele of Doseon and Sumi (Treasure): a 517 cm monument with a marble body whose sides are carved with dragons rising through clouds. Work began in 1636 and was completed in 1653, 18 years of construction.

The way up Wolchulsan

Dogapsa marks the start of the western trails of Wolchulsan National Park. Beyond the temple a path climbs through silver-grass meadows towards the summit, Cheonhwangbong, and along the ridge you can also find the rock-carved Seated Buddha of Wolchulsan, another National Treasure. Plan a full day if you want to reach the top.

Traces of a great monastery

The surviving stonework hints at how large Dogapsa was in the Joseon period. There is a flagpole support erected in 1677 and a huge stone water basin made in 1682, and in the mid-18th century the eminent Hwaeom scholar-monk Yeondam Yuil stayed here to compile a Buddhist dictionary. The temple once had twelve hermitages on the mountain; only two, Sanggyeonseongam and Dongam, remain today.

Tripto tips

• Access: open all year with a car park. Temple stay programmes are also offered.
• Time needed: 60–90 minutes for Haetalmun, the main hall, Mireukjeon and the stele near the stupa garden.
• Best time: in spring, cherry trees line both sides of the approach road for more than 1 km and form a tunnel of blossom. Autumn foliage and Wolchulsan's silver grass are lovely too.
• Nearby: the Dr. Wangin historic site and Gurim village are in the same district, Gunseo-myeon, making an easy day trip.