Wolchulsan

A rock mountain bursts out of the surrounding farmland, its peaks as sharp as flames. Wolchulsan, straddling Yeongam and Gangjin counties, means "the mountain where the moon rises". Its highest peak, Cheonhwangbong (809 m or 810.7 m, depending on the source), is not tall, but granite ridges and sheer cliffs have earned it the nickname "the Geumgangsan of the south-west". It became a national park in 1988, and a vertiginous suspension bridge and a giant Buddha carved into the rock are the highlights of a hike.

Background: the moon-rise rock mountain

Wolchulsan is made mostly of granite formed in the late Cretaceous. Its name changed through the ages: Dalnasan in the Baekje period, Wolnasan under Silla and Wolsaengsan under Goryeo. It became a provincial park in 1973 and a national park in 1988. Sources differ on its area, giving about 41 km² or 56 km², but either way it is one of Korea's smallest national parks. Because the land around it is flat, it looks far taller than it is, and its rocks resemble faces or animals depending on the angle.

Despite bare rock and steep valleys, around 700 plant species and 800 animal species live here, with warm-temperate and temperate forest mixing on its slopes. The round-leaved sundew and the Reeves' turtle are the park's flagship species.

What to see

• Cloud Bridge: a red 54 m suspension bridge first built in 1978, hanging about 120 m above a gorge between Maebong and its neighbouring peak. The view down into the rocky gorge and over the plains is Wolchulsan's signature sight.
• Cheonhwangbong: from the summit the view opens in every direction over the Yeongam plain and surrounding ranges. The route continues past the Cloud Bridge on rock paths and stairs.
• Rock-carved seated Buddha (National Treasure): carved into a niche in the cliff north-west of Gujeongbong, it is 8.6 m high, with a small worshipping child figure carved beside its right knee.
• Dogapsa Temple: on the western slopes, said to have been founded by the monk Doseon in the late Silla period. Its Haetalmun Gate is a National Treasure, and more than 1 km of cherry trees line the entrance road, forming a blossom tunnel in spring.
• Gyeongpodae valley: the Gyeongpodae area on the Gangjin side is known for its clear, cool stream, popular in summer for a circular route up Cheonhwangbong.

Nearby

• Dogapsa and Muwisa temples: two historic temples on the mountain's flanks, good before or after a hike.
• Daeheungsa, Haenam: a World Heritage mountain temple on Duryunsan, around 40 minutes by car.
• Gangjin: south of the mountain, with sites from Jeong Yak-yong's exile such as Dasan Chodang.

Tripto tips

• Trail entry hours: in the Gyeongpodae area you can start up between 04:00 and 15:00 from April to October and 05:00 and 14:00 from November to March. Night hiking, from sunset to two hours before sunrise, is banned. Start in the morning, as late starters may be turned back.
• Fees and closures: there is no admission fee; parking charges vary by trailhead (KRW 2,000 for a small car on the Cheonhwangsa side). During the wildfire seasons (2 March to 30 April and 15 November to 15 December) some trails are closed.
• Routes and time: the main ridge traverse from the Cheonhwangsa temple site or Baramgol valley over Cheonhwangbong and Gujeongbong to Dogapsa takes about 6 hours. For Cheonhwangbong and back via the Cloud Bridge from the Cheonhwangsa side, allow a generous 4 to 5 hours; a short hike to the bridge and back is also possible.
• Caution: rock paths and steep metal stairs call for hiking boots and gloves. Rain and strong wind make it slippery and dangerous; check closures on the Korea National Park Service website.
• Best time: spring blossom at Dogapsa, autumn colours, and the rock ridges at sunset on a clear day.