Buyeo Garimseong Fortress

Garimseong is the only Baekje fortress for which both the year of construction and its original name survive in written records. It rings the summit of Seongheungsan, a hill of only about 260 m, so the climb is easy, yet the top looks out over the lower Geumgang River and the plains of Nonsan and Ganggyeong. The great zelkova at the south gate, nicknamed the "love tree", appears in many historical dramas and has become a well-known sunset spot.

Built in 501 to guard the capital

The Samguk sagi, Korea's oldest surviving history, records that Garimseong was built in 501, the 23rd year of King Dongseong of Baekje. It lies about 10 km south of the capital Sabi (today's Buyeo) in a straight line, above the stretch where the Geumgang flows out to the sea, so it guarded the river approach to the capital. The official put in charge, Baek Ga, resented being posted here, rebelled and killed King Dongseong; his successor, King Muryeong, put down the revolt. The fortress is also known as Seongheungsanseong, after the hill; it was listed as a Historic Site under that name in 1963 and renamed Garimseong, its Baekje-era name, in 2011.

Walls and what survives inside

• Walls: a ring wall around the summit, about 1,500 m long and 3–4 m high, faced with stone on the outside and backed with earth. Excavations revealed Baekje building techniques as well as repairs from the Unified Silla and Joseon periods.
• South gate: the gatehouse is gone, but the roughly 4 m wide opening and its foundation stones remain.
• Inside: traces of wells and what is thought to be a granary, plus a shrine to Yu Geum-pil, one of the founding generals of Goryeo.
• Summit pavilion: Seongheungnu has open views in every direction, good for both sunrise and sunset. A sunrise event is held every 1 January.

Honouring Baekje's last defenders

Since 1979 the local community has held the Imcheon Chunghonje, a memorial rite for the nameless Baekje soldiers who died here resisting the Silla–Tang alliance as the kingdom fell. It usually takes place over two days in late April: on the first evening a lantern procession climbs to the fortress and a beacon is lit on the old signal platform, and the second day brings a historical parade, the rite itself and traditional music.

The love tree

The lone zelkova above the south gate was designated a Natural Monument in 2021. It is about 22 m tall with a girth of about 5.4 m at chest height, and estimates of its age range from over 400 to around 550 years. Its lopsided crown is said to look like a heart, hence the nickname. The drama Seodongyo (2005) filmed a key love scene here, and it has also appeared in The Great King Sejong, Painter of the Wind, Hotel del Luna and Alchemy of Souls.

Tripto tips

• Hours and tickets: open all year, free of charge.
• The walk: the south gate is about 200 m from the hilltop car park, just a short flight of steps from the tree. Including the summit pavilion, allow around one hour.
• Sunset and sunrise: the tree's silhouette is most striking at dusk; arrive about 30 minutes before sunset for photos. Winter sunrise visits can be cold and the path slippery.
• Getting there: it is about 10 km south of Buyeo Intercity Bus Terminal, so a car or taxi is easiest.
• Nearby: at Daejosa temple on the south-eastern slope stands an early-Goryeo stone Maitreya Bodhisattva about 10 m tall, a national Treasure. Combine it with Busosanseong Fortress and Gungnamji Pond in Buyeo for a full day.