Gungnamji Pond

In the fields south of the town of Buyeo lies a wide pond lined with weeping willows. Gungnamji, literally "the pond south of the palace", was made south of the royal palace when Sabi, today's Buyeo, was the capital of the Baekje kingdom. It is regarded as the oldest documented man-made garden in Korea. In summer, lotuses bloom all around it, and it becomes the most visited sight in Buyeo.

History: a Baekje garden modelled on an island of immortals

The Samguk Sagi records that in the third month of 634, the 35th year of King Mu of Baekje, a pond was dug south of the palace and water was channelled in from more than 20 ri away. Willows were planted along the banks and an island was built in the middle to represent Bangjang, a mythical mountain where immortals live. Another entry says the king went boating on the great pond with the ladies of the court, which suggests it was large enough for boats.

An early Japanese chronicle says that Baekje garden-making techniques travelled to Japan and became the starting point of Japanese garden design. East of the pond, an octagonal well, roof tiles and foundation stones survive. The site was designated a Historic Site in 1964. The pond that remains today covers about 33,000 m², and its original size is unknown.

The Samguk Sagi has more entries linked to the area. In 636 King Mu held a banquet for his ministers at the Manghaeru pavilion, and in 655 King Uija lavishly rebuilt the crown prince's palace and erected the Manghaejeong pavilion south of the royal palace. A Baekje craftsman named Nojagong is also said to have gone to Japan and taught garden making, a story often cited as evidence that Baekje led the Three Kingdoms in garden design.

What to see

• The island: a wooden bridge leads to a pavilion on the island in the middle of the pond. From there the willows reflected in the water recall the layout of the Baekje garden.
• The lotus fields: many kinds of lotus and water lily grow in the wide paddies around the pond, at their best around July.
• Traces of excavation: surveys since 1990 have revealed artificial channels, a wooden water tank, wells, roads and rice fields from the Sabi period. Wooden tablets found in the channels record district names, personal names and the clearing of rice paddies.

Good to know

The pond is tied to the birth legend of King Mu. A woman living alone by the pond had a son with the dragon of the pond, and this boy, Seodong, grew up digging yams for a living and later became King Mu. He is the same Seodong of the famous love story with Princess Seonhwa of Silla, which is why the area is also called Seodong Park.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: free, open at all times, with parking.
• When to go: in July the lotuses are in full bloom and the Seodong Lotus Festival takes place. A chrysanthemum show follows in October–November, and sunsets behind the island pavilion are lovely. Lotus flowers open fully in the morning, so go early in summer.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for a loop of the pond and the lotus fields. There is little shade, so bring a hat or umbrella in midsummer.
• Combine with: the Jeongnimsa Temple Site, about 1 km away, and Busosanseong Fortress to see the old Baekje capital of Sabi in a day.