Gwandeokjeong Pavilion

In the middle of Jeju's old town, a pavilion with long, low eaves looks out over a square. Gwandeokjeong, built in 1448 as an archery training ground for soldiers, is one of the oldest buildings on Jeju. For almost six centuries the square in front has been where islanders gathered, protested and celebrated, so a single building carries layers of the island's history.

History: from archery ground to public square

Gwandeokjeong was built in 1448, the 30th year of King Sejong, by Jeju's governor Sin Suk-cheong for military training. The name comes from a line in the Book of Rites: archery is a way to observe virtue. It began as a three-bay building and was rebuilt several times into today's structure, five bays wide and four deep under a hipped-and-gabled roof; its building techniques are thought to date from around the 17th century. In 1924, when the Japanese colonial authorities widened the road, they cut about 60 cm off the overhanging eaves. It was designated a Treasure in 1963 and fully dismantled and repaired between 2003 and 2006.

Throughout the Joseon period, the ground in front of Gwandeokjeong hosted the island administration's key ceremonies. The 1702 Tamna Sullyeokdo album, recording governor Yi Hyeong-sang's tours, shows 433 horses being inspected here before being sent to the court, and officials gathering for an archery contest. In 1959 it became the first building on Jeju to be designated a National Treasure, before being reclassified as a Treasure in 1963; in 1972 a typhoon brought down part of the roof and blew away its name board.

What to see

• Beam paintings: The main beams inside carry paintings such as the Battle of Red Cliffs, a great hunt and the ten symbols of longevity. The painter is unknown, but the work is highly regarded.
• Name boards: The original front board was said to be written by Prince Anpyeong, but it burned; records attribute the current calligraphy to Yi San-hae, chief state councillor under King Seonjo. Inside hang the boards "Tamna Hyeongseung" (1780) and "Honam Jeilru" (1882).
• Jeju-style architecture: Long eaves and a low profile suit the windy island. The building is open on all sides, with two bird-beak brackets on every column supporting the roof.

A square of modern history

The square in front has seen much of Jeju's modern history. During the 1901 Lee Jae-su uprising, rebels carried out executions here, and on 1 March 1947 police opened fire during a commemoration, killing six people, an event counted among the starting points of the tensions that led to the Jeju April 3 tragedy. In 1999 the Tamna Ipchun-gut spring ritual was revived here after 74 years and is still held around the start of spring.

Nearby

• Jeju-mok Government Office: Directly behind the pavilion, the site of Jeju's Joseon-era administration, excavated from 1991 to 1998 and restored by 2002.
• Nexon Computer Museum: Also in Jeju City, a good indoor pairing.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: The pavilion stands on the square along Gwandeok-ro, so you can see it as you pass.
• Jeju-mok Government Office: Open 09:00–18:00 every day. Adult tickets are listed at KRW 1,500, and night openings from May to October (Wednesday–Sunday, 18:00–21:00) are free.
• Time needed: 20 minutes for the pavilion, about an hour with the government office.
• Getting there: 19 Gwandeok-ro, in the heart of the old town, easily reached by city bus; the government office car park is listed as free.