Gyeongpodae Pavilion

When the moon rises there is one in the sky, one on the sea, one on the lake, one in your wine cup and one in the eyes of the person beside you. The Joseon poet Jeong Cheol wrote that from Gyeongpodae you could see five moons. About 7 km north-east of central Gangneung, this pavilion on a hill above Gyeongpoho Lake is one of the Eight Scenic Views of Gwandong, sung by poets and scholars for centuries.

History: a pavilion rebuilt for almost 700 years

Gyeongpodae was first built in 1326, under the Goryeo king Chungsuk, by an official named Bak Suk. Older foundation stones were found on the spot even then, suggesting an earlier pavilion stood nearby. It originally stood elsewhere and is said to have been moved to its present site in 1508. Repeated repairs and extensions changed its form over the years, and because these changes are unusually well documented it was made a national Treasure on 30 December 2019. The pavilion and lake together were also designated a Scenic Site in 2013.

Jeong Cheol called Gyeongpodae the finest of the eight views in his poem "Gwandong Byeolgok", and Joseon kings Taejo and Sejo are said to have climbed up to admire the scenery.

What to see

• Three-level floor: a large pavilion, five bays by five, whose wooden floor steps up in three levels. Raised platforms added on the south and north sides during repairs in 1899 create a layout rarely seen in other pavilions.
• Signboards: inside hang a poem written by King Sukjong, the "Ode to Gyeongpodae" said to have been written by the scholar Yi I (Yulgok) at the age of ten, and other famous texts. The seal-script name board was written by Yu Han-ji, the regular-script one by Yi Ik-hoe.
• "Jeil Gangsan": the large board reading "the finest landscape" uses one style for "Jeil" and another for "Gangsan", so the last two characters are thought to have been added later by someone else. See if you can spot the difference.
• Gyeongpoho Lake: a natural lagoon separated from the sea by a sandbar. You need to see pavilion and lake together to understand why the place became famous.

Good to know

In 1746 Kim Sang-seong, governor of Gangwon, had court painters record the province's finest views in an album called "Ten Views of Gwandong". Its painting of Gyeongpodae looks down from above, showing the lake divided into inner and outer parts by the pavilion's hill, an old fisherman, and the sun rising over the sea. It is fun to compare with what you see today.

A love story between Bak Sin, an early Joseon governor of Gangwon, and the Gangneung entertainer Hongjang is set at Gyeongpodae. Recorded by Seo Geo-jeong in his "Dongin Sihwa", it is still told around the lake today.

Tripto tips

• Visiting: open at all times and free.
• Time: 30 minutes for the pavilion; 1–2 hours if you also walk around the lake.
• Season: the lake shore is busiest when the cherry trees bloom in early April. For the moon view, come at dusk around full moon.
• Walking on: go down the hill and across the lake to reach Gyeongpo Beach on the East Sea.

Nearby

• Ojukheon: the birthplace of Yulgok, about 10 minutes away by car.
• Seongyojang: a large late-Joseon aristocratic house on the west side of the lake.
• Heo Gyun and Heo Nanseolheon Memorial Park and Chodang Tofu Village: grouped south of the lake, an easy lunch stop.