Woljeongsa Temple

Past the first gate, straight fir trees rise on both sides of the path as if to close off the sky. Woljeongsa on Odaesan is often remembered first for this forest walk. Beyond the trees, a Goryeo-era octagonal nine-storey pagoda stands in the middle of a wide courtyard, with a stone bodhisattva kneeling in front of it. Woljeongsa is the head temple of the 4th district of the Jogye Order and oversees many temples and hermitages around Odaesan.

History: rebuilt after burning to the ground

Woljeongsa is said to have been founded in 643 by the monk Jajang, during the reign of Queen Seondeok of Silla. Legend has it that Jajang met the bodhisattva Manjusri in Tang China and came to Odaesan hoping to meet him again. The name, "moon essence", is said to come from the unusually bright full moon rising over Dongdaesan.

The temple suffered major fires in 1307 and 1833, and in 1951, during the Korean War retreat, an order given for military reasons led to every building except the octagonal pagoda being burned. Reconstruction began in 1964 when the monk Tanheo rebuilt the main hall, Jeokgwangjeon, and most of today's buildings date from the decades that followed.

What to see

• Fir forest path: about 1,700 fir trees line the roughly 1 km stretch from the first gate to Geumganggyo Bridge. The forest won the top prize in a national beautiful forest contest held by the Korea Forest Service.
• Octagonal nine-storey pagoda: a National Treasure and a leading example of early Goryeo multi-storey pagodas, 15.2 m tall. Note the unusual two-step angular and rounded supports under each roof stone. Reliquaries found when it was dismantled and restored in 1970 are a Treasure.
• Seated stone bodhisattva: a Goryeo statue kneeling on one knee in offering towards the pagoda, upgraded to National Treasure in 2017. The figure in front of the pagoda is a 2008 replica; the original is in the temple museum.
• Temple museum: opened in 1999, it holds the original bodhisattva and treasures from temples across Odaesan.
• Stupa field: about 700 m along the road towards Sangwonsa, some 20 monks' stupas stand together in the forest.

Good to know

• The Seonjae-gil valley trail from Woljeongsa to Sangwonsa is about 9 km and takes around 3.5 hours.
• Odaesan was designated a national park in 1975.

Nearby

• Sangwonsa: the temple at the end of the Seonjae-gil trail, home to the bronze bell cast in 725.
• Odaesan Sago site: the site of the archive that held the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, in the forest between Woljeongsa and Sangwonsa.
• Sogeumgang: the granite valley in the eastern part of Odaesan National Park, nicknamed "little Geumgangsan" for its rock scenery. The walk to Guryong Falls is a favourite.

Tripto tips

• Fees and hours: there is no admission charge and the temple is open year-round. Parking starts at KRW 3,000 for small cars and rises with vehicle size.
• Temple stay: relaxation and experience programmes are offered; book in advance.
• When to go: the forest changes character with each season. Weekends get busy, so come early in the morning for a quiet walk.
• Time needed: 1.5–2 hours for the forest, temple and museum. Walking the Seonjae-gil to Sangwonsa turns it into a full day.