Gyeryongsan National Park

Gyeryongsan takes its name from its ridgeline, said to resemble a dragon wearing a rooster's crest. It spans Gongju, Gyeryong and Daejeon, and on 31 December 1968 it became Korea's second national park after Jirisan. Rocky ridges, deep valleys, old temples such as Donghaksa, Gapsa and Sinwonsa, and feng shui tales of a future capital all come together on this mountain.

The mountain's story

In the Baekje period it was called Gyesan or Gyeramsan, and in Unified Silla it was one of the Five Sacred Mountains where the state offered rites. These mountain-spirit rites continued through Goryeo and Joseon at the Jungakdan altar at Sinwonsa.

Sindoan, south of the mountain, was the first site chosen by Yi Seong-gye, founder of Joseon, for his new capital, and palace construction began there. Work stopped after about half a year and the capital went to Hanyang (Seoul) instead. The prophetic book Jeonggamnok foretold that a figure called Jeong Doryeong would one day found an 800-year capital here, so Gyeryongsan was long regarded as a mysterious place. On the western ridges you can also trace Gyeryongsanseong, a fortress wall about 3.5 km long thought to date from the mid-9th century.

Forests and wildlife

Gyeryongsan is mostly covered in broadleaf deciduous forest. Pines and oaks dominate the lower slopes, birch and maples the middle reaches, and Mongolian oak and azaleas the summits, so the forest changes as you climb. The park's flagship species are the ruddy kingfisher, with its bright red bill, and Jeffersonia dubia, a small plant with violet flowers in early spring.

Peaks and sights

• Cheonhwangbong: The highest peak, 845 m or 847 m depending on the source. It is off limits and cannot be climbed.
• Gwaneumbong (766 m) and Sambulbong (775 m): The main summits open to hikers. Sambulbong is said to look like three seated Buddhas. A rocky ridge links the two.
• Yeoncheonbong (739 m): Its sunsets are counted among the Eight Views of Gyeryongsan.
• Nammaetap: Two stone pagodas on the trail from Donghaksa to Sambulbong. A brother-and-sister legend tied to the monk Sangwon, founder of Donghaksa, is told about them.
• Eunseon Falls: About 46 m high and best after rain. In dry seasons hardly any water flows.
• Donghaksa, Gapsa and Sinwonsa: Donghaksa on the east side houses a college for nuns, Gapsa on the west is famous for autumn colours, and Sinwonsa to the south holds the Jungakdan mountain-spirit altar.

The Eight Views of Gyeryongsan

Sunrise from Cheonhwangbong, snow on Sambulbong, sunset at Yeoncheonbong, clouds around Gwaneumbong, the summer forest of the Donghaksa valley, autumn colours in the Gapsa valley, mist at Eunseon Falls and the moon over Nammaetap are the mountain's eight classic scenes, a reminder that it changes with every season.

Tripto tips

• Classic route: A much-loved loop runs Donghaksa → Nammaetap → Sambulbong → Gwaneumbong → Eunseon Falls → Donghaksa. There are rocky sections and steps, so wear hiking boots and allow a generous half day.
• Trailheads: The park is divided into the Donghaksa, Gapsa, Sinwonsa and Sutonggol areas. By public transport, the Donghaksa area, served by buses from Daejeon, is the easiest.
• When to go: The cherry blossom road at Donghaksa in spring and the Gapsa valley in autumn are especially good. On peak-season weekends the car parks fill early.
• Watch out: Trails close in bad weather, and permitted hiking hours vary by season. Check closures on the national park website before you set off. Leaving marked trails is not allowed.