Sinwonsa Temple, Gongju

On the southwestern slopes of Gyeryongsan, Sinwonsa is counted with Donghaksa and Gapsa among the mountain's three great temples. It dates back to the Baekje kingdom, but what sets it apart is Jungakdan, a shrine where the Joseon royal court made offerings to the mountain spirit of Gyeryongsan. It is the only surviving shrine of its kind. Sinwonsa is noticeably quieter than the other two temples, so it suits an unhurried visit.

History

Sinwonsa is said to have been founded in 651, the 11th year of King Uija of Baekje, by the monk Bodeok. It has been rebuilt several times, and the present main hall dates from 1876. Tradition holds that the temple moved after being burned in the Imjin War of the 1590s, and the original site is thought to be the broad field south of Jungakdan, where a five-storey stone pagoda still marks the old centre.

The name has a story too. It was originally written with the character for "spirit", but when King Gojong renamed the country the Korean Empire, the characters were changed to ones meaning "new beginning".

Jungakdan: a royal shrine to the mountain spirit

In 1394, the third year of the Joseon dynasty, the court set up an altar here for offerings to the spirit of Gyeryongsan, at first called Gyeryongdan. It was demolished in 1651 and rebuilt in 1879 at the wish of Empress Myeongseong. At that point it became Jungakdan, the "middle mountain altar", paired with Sangakdan on Myohyangsan and Hagakdan on Jirisan. The other two are gone, leaving Jungakdan as the sole survivor. It was designated a Treasure in 1999.

The building is a scaled-down version of palace architecture, so you see a royal ritual space for the mountain spirit set inside a Buddhist temple. A painting of the mountain spirit hangs inside.

What to see

• Jungakdan: the neat shrine building and its name board are the main reason to come.
• Main hall (Daeungjeon): rebuilt in 1876 and dedicated to Amitabha Buddha, a compact building three bays wide and three deep, listed as provincial cultural heritage.
• Five-storey stone pagoda: standing on what is thought to be the original temple site. In spring, azaleas flower red behind it.
• Hyanggak and Yeongwonjeon: smaller halls beside the main hall. The Buddha in Hyanggak is said to have been enshrined by Empress Myeongseong.
• Stone Maitreya of Sorimwon: a standing Maitreya Buddha listed as cultural heritage along with the main hall, Jungakdan and the pagoda.
• Hanging painting of Rocana Buddha: a huge scroll hung outdoors for major ceremonies and designated a National Treasure. It is not normally on display.

Tripto tips

• Admission and parking: both free. Jungakdan can be visited 09:00-18:00.
• Time needed: 40 minutes to 1 hour covers the temple, Jungakdan and the pagoda.
• Combine with: Donghaksa and Gapsa in Gyeryongsan National Park for a three-temple day, or drive on to Gongsanseong Fortress in Gongju.
• Etiquette: this is a working temple, so keep quiet in the halls and only take photos where permitted.