Gapsa Temple (Gongju)

An old saying goes "Magok in spring, Gapsa in autumn" (春麻谷 秋甲寺): Magoksa is at its finest in spring, Gapsa in autumn. Set on the northwestern slopes of Gyeryongsan, Gapsa feels special from the moment you walk in under old pines and zelkova trees, and beyond it the valley leads past waterfalls and rock formations. True to its long history, the temple holds a remarkable number of designated treasures.

History: the temple that came first

Temple records say Gapsa was founded in 420, the first year of King Guisin of Baekje, by Ado, a monk from Goguryeo. The monk Hyemyeong rebuilt its halls in 556, and later the great Silla monk Uisang expanded it greatly, making it one of the Ten Hwaeom Temples, the leading centres of the Hwaeom school of Buddhism. The name is said to mean "first" (甲) among heaven, earth and humankind.

During the Imjin War the temple was a base for warrior monks led by Yeonggyu. It burned to the ground during the second Japanese invasion in 1597, and rebuilding began in 1604 with the main hall and Jinhaedang. Gapsa also enjoyed royal patronage under Joseon, carving the woodblocks of the Worin Seokbo, a Korean-language life of the Buddha.

What to see

• Iron flagpole (Treasure): an iron pole once used to hang banners for temple ceremonies. It is a rare surviving Unified Silla example and rises dramatically among the trees.
• Stupa (Treasure): a Goryeo-period monk's stupa finely carved with lions and clouds.
• Daejeokjeon and Daeungjeon: the wide courtyard before Daejeokjeon and the old halls around the main hall form a harmonious group.
• Pyochungwon: a shrine to Yeonggyu and the other warrior-monk leaders.
• Bronze bell and Worin Seokbo woodblocks (Treasures): the temple's best-known heritage objects.
• Valley sights: Yongmun Falls, Sujeongbong Peak, Cheonjin Botap and Gunjadae lie around the temple, and the southern valley is known for its nine scenic bends.

A temple full of treasures

Even among Gyeryongsan's many temples, Gapsa is unusually rich in heritage. Its Samsinbul Gwaebul, a huge painted banner of the Buddha hung outdoors for great ceremonies, is a National Treasure, while the iron flagpole, the stupa, the bronze bell, the Worin Seokbo woodblocks and a painting of the Buddhas of the Three Ages are Treasures. Buildings such as the main hall, Daejeokjeon and the lecture hall, along with several Buddha statues, are South Chungcheong provincial heritage. Gapsa is also one of the Ten Scenic Views of Gongju.

Tripto tips

• Best time: autumn foliage, usually from late October to early November, is the busiest and most beautiful season. Arrive early to enjoy the forest path in peace.
• Hours and admission: 05:30–20:00, free. Templestay and other programmes are charged separately.
• Templestay: you can join services and templestay programmes; contact the temple in advance.
• Time needed: 1–2 hours for the temple and Yongmun Falls; allow a full day to hike over Gyeryongsan towards Donghaksa.
• Combine with: Gongsanseong Fortress and the Songsan-ri royal tombs in Gongju for a Baekje history trip.